Blood glucose before food and 12 hours after last meal is 325

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Thanks! Also, he was really not a fan of the ear prick.... How long till they stop hating that? He doesn't even seems to notice when he gets his insulin.
 
I did the pricking by hand, but could I use the little auto pricker thing with the button? If I put it on the lowest setting ? I feel like it would go through his ear
 
Make sure you give a low carb treat after each prick-even if you're unsuccessful. Many of us use Pure Bites, which you can get at Petsmart, or even a bit of poached chicken breast, just be sure it's something he really likes and only give it at testing time. After awhile, he'll be looking for that treat and wont worry about the prick. In fact most kitties will look forward to the test!
I don't use the lancing device I just hold the lancet between my thumb and index finger, so I'm not sure how to use the device, although many here do use them. Occasionally I go all the way through his ear, but it doesn't seem to bother him. I use a little neosporin with pain relief ointment after.
 
He really likes poached chicken....so maybe I will do that ! It makes sense to me that his sugar is down to 180's this is around the amount of time after every shot that he seems spunkiest, then he seems to get a bit sluggish again come close to feeding and insulin time.... Probably cause his sugar is back up
 
Here's something I wrote up for others that needed help with testing...maybe it'll help you too!

It can be really helpful to establish a routine with testing. Pick one spot that you want your "testing spot" to be (I like the kitchen counter because it's got good light and it's at a good height....it also already blocked 2 escape routes due to the wall and the backsplash) It can be anywhere though...a rug on the floor, a table, a particular spot on the couch...wherever is good for you. Take him there as many times a day as you can and just give his ears a quick rub and then he gets a yummy (low carb) treat. Most cats aren't objecting so much with the poking..it's the fooling with their ears they don't like, but once they're desensitized to it and learn to associate a certain place with the treats, they usually start to come when they're called! Or even when they hear us opening the test kit!

You also have to remember...you're not poking him to hurt him...you're testing him to keep him safe and understand what's going on inside his body. There's just nothing better than truly understanding what's going on inside your kitty's body and with this disease, the more knowledge you have, the more power you have against it. The edges of the ears have very few pain receptors, so it really doesn't hurt them. Also, if you're nervous and tense, it's going to make your kitty nervous and tense too. As silly as it might seem, try singing! It forces you to use a different part of your brain!

It's also important to make sure his ear is warm. A small sock filled with a little rice and microwaved or a small pill bottle filled with warm water (check temp against your wrist like you would a baby bottle) works well.

When you're first starting, it's also important to use a lower gauge lancet, like 25-28 gauge. Most of the "lancet devices" come with 33 gauge lancets and they are just too tiny to start with. The bigger lancets (that are lower numbers) make a bigger "hole". As you poke more and more, the ears will grow new capillaries and will be easier and easier to get blood from...we call it "learning to bleed"

Finding the right "treat" will be a great help too!
Freeze dried chicken, bonito flakes, little pieces of baked chicken...whatever low carb treat you can find that he really enjoys will help him to associate the testing with the treat! China's Achilles heel was baked chicken, so I'd bake a piece, chop it into bite sized pieces, put some in the refrigerator and freeze the rest to use as needed. It didn't take long for her to come any time I picked up the meter!

A little Neosporin with Pain Relief Ointment (not cream) can help too. A very thin film will not only help in healing, but if you put it on before the poke, it can help get the blood to "bead up" (think "oil and water") instead of wicking into the fur. Just make sure it's a thin film so you don't end up sticking the test strip into a big glob of Neosporin!!
 
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It's best to just post a new post once a day around here.....with so many kitties, it's hard to keep track of more than 1 post per cat.

We have a spreadsheet that we really rely on around here. It will help if you can get it started to keep track of his numbers. Here are the Instructions on setting up the FDMB spreadsheet....If you have any problems getting it going, let me know. I'll be happy to set it up for you! It only takes about 30 seconds. Just click on my name and send me a private message (choose "Start Conversation")

As I said in an earlier post, if you are considering Lantus instead of Novolin, I'd go for it. Novolin just isn't a great insulin for cats (although some do OK on it)....but most people who start on Novolin switch to one of the better insulins for cats like Lantus, Levemir or ProZinc and are much happier with the results.

I don't see how much insulin you gave this morning (but may have missed it) but that's actually a pretty good result so far...it brought him down by about half and that's about normal for Novolin
 
He's getting 4 units BID, sorry for too many threads, I'm new, I'll get it figured out ....I hope, at least he's not listed as crosssd over anymore :p Thanks for bearing with me as a new person, I'm sure it's frustrating. I'm gonna makes some shredded chicken, he never really begs for people food other than when I'm preparing shredded chicken, then he just sits and stares longingly, so I'm sure he will be excited !
 
No problem at all!! We were all new here once and someone explained stuff to us!!

That's one of the great things about this message board....people want to "pay it forward". You'll see some people still here even after their kitties have crossed (they'll have the GA in their names)
 
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