Newbie here

Hi, my name is Jamie and my buddy Colby here was officially diagnosed with feline diabetes this afternoon. His blood glucose was at 518. We will begin insulin this evening. I've spent the past 3 days doing nothing but reading about feline diabetes and I'm pretty overwhelmed. I became aware of some weight loss about a week ago and weighed him with myself to confirm it. There had been more urine in the one box for the past few months but I have 3 cats and one other box seemed to be getting less use, so that alone didn't really tip me off. These factors combined with what seemed to be a more than healthy appetite (increased mooching) is what made me think diabetes. So I made an appointment for Monday and we just got the results today.

I have been instructed to administer 2 units of insulin twice a day. The insulin prescribed is PZI. He goes back for a check-up and blood work in a week. All of his other levels (kidney's, etc.) were within normal ranges. I am still waiting for the results on a urinalysis.

Colby will be 8 years old in the spring (March/April?) and is a larger breed cat, possibly part Main Coone(?) He really looks more like a Norwegian Forest Cat. He was at 18 pounds his last check-up in October and is now at 12.5 pounds. I am so saddened that I didn't notice the weight loss sooner. But it wasn't apparent at first as he is a long haired cat and has a lot of fur.

His diet has been primarily Purina One Healthy Adult dry foot. The three of them also share a can of canned food at supper time as a treat. As for the canned food they have been getting a mix of Friskies and Fancy Feast.

I am on a very tight budget; currently working only 2 days a week and searching for a new job. The past 48hrs has cost me $300 and I know more expenses are to come. All of this talk about hypoglycemia is making me paranoid. I'm afraid to leave him home alone but obviously I need to work and find more work, especially now.

So, any kind words of encouragement or advice is greatly appreciated. These cats are my world. I AM your typical "crazy cat lady", unmarried, no children, living alone with 3 cats. Presently I practically out of work and these guys are the only real happiness I have.

 

Hi Jaime and welcome to the group.

First off I think you mean blood glucose level not blood alcohol. Although that would be pretty interesting if your cat was an alcoholic rather than a diabetic, at least you could put him in rehab and get him fixed....... seriously though, this forum is a great place to gain knowledge and really learn how to manage feline diabetes. By doing just a few things each day (that really won't take up much of your time at all), you won't need to worry about losing your precious cat, not where feline diabetes is concerned.

There are three key factors to managing diabetes: food/nutrition, home testing and insulin

1) Feline Nutrition: Now, as far as diet - definitely dump the dry food (if you are feeding any) and if the vet recommends purchasing prescription food like DM just say "no thank you". ALL cats, and especially those with diabetes, do best on a species appropriate diet that is high in protein and low in carbs. Dry food DOES NOT fit that bill and DM food, even canned, just really isn't that great as far as quality. Most here on FDMB feed low carb/high protein canned, raw bought from a pet store or they make there own.

Here great links, one is to a food chart put together by one of our board members that breaks down the carb % and protein % of most of the commercial brand foods. You want to keep the carb % below 10% and around 7% is great. The other link is to a site by a vet "Dr. Lisa DVM" ... who also posts on this board from time to time ... there is in-depth info. there about many things, including nutrition and how to make raw food.
Nutrition/food info

The good thing with feeding your diabetic cat this way, is that it is ALSO good for any non-diabetic cat too. All your cats can safely eat the same food without worry and it may save you some costs and headaches of having to do separate feedings and keeping track of what they are eating.


2. Home testing: It is impossible to convey the value of testing your cat's BG (blood glucose) level at home. Some vets will "suggest" this, but most won't even mention it. They will send you home with insulin and an amount to shoot and maybe some instructions about hypoglycemia (blood sugar dropping to a dangerously low level).

Well, the thing is, human diabetics don't EVER give themselves insulin without checking there BG to make sure it is safe to do so, so why shouldn't it be the same for our kitties. Here on FDMB it is. You will notice that the vast majority of people here test their cat's BG at least 2x/day (before giving each shot to make sure the level is safe enough) and periodically at other times to see how the cat is responding to the current dose. We use a human glucometer, test strips and lancets - which are all very readily available and easy to use.

Our kitties get lots of love and treats for "putting up" with this and most of them actually come out to be tested on their own 'cause they want those treats . Here is a collection of great links that "Carolyn and Spot" pulled together about hometesting. See what you think ... it truly is the best way to not only keep Your cat safe but also really get a handle on this disease and help him to live a healthy life with FD (feline diabetes).

Home testing Links

3. Insulin: There are several types of insulin available. Many people, myself included use Lantus or Levimer both of which are great insulins. They are gentle insulin and given twice (BID) per day in 12 hour increments.

Please read up on the insulins available, here is a link to the Insulin Support Groups:

Insulin Support Groups

However, one caveat and again this shows how these three things are inter-related:

If you are feeding dry food or even a high carb food, BEFORE removing these foods, please make sure of your insulin dose as it will most likely need to be reduced, so as to avoid a possible hypoglycemic situation due to the removal of the dry/high carb foods that will lower the BG’s and reduce the amount of insulin required. Again, another reason why home testing is important.


I know this all seems like a lot, and that's because it is ... there is a learning curve here. But as long as you are determined and keep at it, you will have it down before you know it and you'll be seeing the results in Your cat' overall health and happiness. Ask all the questions you can think of - that's why we are here!

Also, if you haven't done it yet, take the time and fill out your profile. It will help when others come on and read this. Also, let us know where you live - city/state as there are probably people in your area who can provide on the ground support and help you to learn home testing, etc.

 

Hi Colby's Mom,
The good thing is that the costs are primarily front end loaded. My Thomas has been an insulin dependant for over nine years now. Another piece of good news is that with the newer insulins, and with changing your cats..all of them to a lower carb, canned food diet, you stand a chance of Colby going into remission.
The board in general also reccomends home testing Colby's glucose..and that as well will save on costs. Please refer to viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6 for more info on receiving a start up kit.
Other than that welcome!
Dana

 

Hi Jamie and welcome for FDMB.

You have found the best place to help you manage Colby's diabetes. While the initial cost may seem overwhelming, there are ways to manage the costs and help you regulate Colby's glucose levels.

First I recommend that you begin reading the information on this site. There is a lot, but I recommend that you begin with the information on diet, hometesting and hypoglycemia. Also ask as many questions as you need to help you understand how to care for Colby. Here are some recommendations I have for you:

1) Diet. Try to get Colby and any other cats off of dry food completely. Dry food is high in carbs and will make it harder for you to regulate his glucose levels. By change all of your cats' diets, you also reduce the chances that any of the other cats will also develop diabetes. You do not need prescription food, the Friskies and Fancy Feast will be fine. There is a link under Health links for Janet & Binky's food list http://binkyspage.tripod.com/canfood.html. If you use this list, look for foods less than 10 in the carbs column.

2) Learn to hometest. I can't stress enough how important this is. First, by testing before EVERY shot, you will know if it is safe to give him his dose. For newbies, we recommend not giving insulin if the blood glucose (BG) level is below 200. As you learn how Colby responds to insulin, you will also learn to possibly lower that number. Also by hometesting, this will also eliminate unneccessary trips to the vet just for testing. Plus the readings will be more accurate at home since stress raises BG levels and most cats are stressed at the vet's office. For hometesting you would use a human glucose meter to test. Any brand will do, but since you do need to control your costs, I recommend Walmart's Relion meter. The meter is about $9 and strips about $22 for 50. This is one of the most economical meters to use.

 

Welcome to our FDMB family and be patient with yourself. You sound like you really love your cats, so you have come to the perfect place. Get some chocolate, sit back and get ready to read. Also, remember Every Cat Is Different. (ECID) Also, remember opinions may vary sometimes on this board, so you may get different views. Unfortunately, that is human nature.

Sorry this is very long, but there is a lot to say! Also, remember we were ALL newbies once and are feeling just like you are right now! OK……..breathe………. :RAHCAT

You do not need any type of prescription food or “special” diabetic food. Use Janet & Binky’s chart for canned wet food at http://binkyspage.tripod.com/canfood.html. . Low carb is best for diabetics. I try to stay around 10% or under. I feed Whiskas, 9-Lives and mostly Friskies canned food. Diabetes is very treatable and does not cost as much as you would think. If you are giving a high dose of insulin and feeding dry, be careful with switching to canned food. You MUST reduce the insulin at the same time you switch to canned food.

Please create a profile if you have not already done so (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=531). It will help us to help you. We need to know what kind of insulin you are on, what needles you are using (U-40 or U-100), what are you feeding, how much insulin you are giving and when, BG test results, etc. There are many people on this board from all over the world, so it will be helpful to know what area and time zone you are in.

Remember that your cat is YOUR cat, and YOU are paying your VET to help you take care of him; diabetes was probably a day or two worth of notes when the vet was in college; it is probably NOT a day-to-day existence with his own cat trying to maintain a quality of life. Sorry to say, but I would have overdosed my guys on insulin if I followed my vet's advice. Vets, unfortunately are not as knowledgeable as they should be on diabetes.

Sometimes, as I did, you have to take a leap of faith and trust these people on this board who deal with diabetes day in and day out. Trust me. You will not be disappointed. OK………..breathe again……….get some chocolate…….. cat_pet_icon

Also, please realize that it takes insulin about a week to settle. START LOW AND GO SLOW!! The usual starting dose from our experiences is 1u twice a day for at least a week. Insulin in cats is NOT and I repeat NOT based on weight. This is a misconception that a lot of us have gotten from our vets here. pc_work

You have to be patient, as I also had to learn!! Do not adjust the dose upwards based on one test. Don’t freak out based on one test result. As long as the levels stay on the high side, keep the same dose twice a day for at least the initial week period and you should see improvements. When you have some time (hee hee), read my profile doc at http://docs.google.com/View?id=dfqss8sg_1cpgwhbd9 .

If you are not hometesting already, you really need to start!! Hometesting is VERY important. Most of us here us any human meter. Think of it as a human diabetic does. *If it were you or a child of yours, you'd be testing blood glucose levels at home prior to each shot; you'd be working with your doctor to determine a proper dose based on those shot results, correct?* Some vets do not agree with hometesting and I cannot for the life of me understand why. Most vets, sadly are not knowledgeable enough in feline diabetes. Insulin is a VERY powerful drug and you NEED to hometest before giving a shot. This is very important. The vet would rather have you bring the cat to them, stress it out more, which may spike the levels anyway and then they can charge you $$. Hometesting saved me a lot of money and it is VERY important for you personally to know the cat’s levels and how it is reacting to the insulin before you shoot so you do not pass up your ideal dosage.

Thanks to everyone's help here I learned to home test 2 cats and they both got off insulin within 3 weeks with diet change…but of course, they reacting both DIFFERENTLY with the process. If I can do it with 2 cats twice a day (and more on curve days), ANYONE can do it. It does NOT hurt them as much as you think it does. It just stings for a moment and then it is gone, you can try it on yourself. Also, put pressure on the ear after poking and it should minimize the nub. They won't mind it once they start feeling better. I use the True Track meter (CVS or Walgreens brand) which I love. And, the strips are also reasonable. Also, remember to give them a treat after the test. Here is a link to a member videos on hometesting:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zE12-4fVn8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ6iXetR398

I would not feed DRY food if at all possible. Of course, it is better than nothing – you MUST get them to eat if you are giving insulin, but if there is any chance, get them off the dry. I took my guys off dry and within a month they were off insulin. Again, remember that switching from dry to wet can cause a drop in blood sugars, so you MUST reduce insulin at the same time to make sure you are not giving too much insulin. I truly believe also that I saved some of my many others from developing diabetes. I also saved so, so much money changing them all to regular canned cat food.
When Blackie and Jackie got diagnosed, I was afraid to start shots. The people on this board made me realize it was no big deal. (They went on PZI insulin around 3-25-06 and went off on 4-18-06! Please also realize that diet plays a BIG, BIG part in insulin needs. I switched my cats off dry food to all wet and I was never so happy. It was a challenge to try to regulate 2 cats at once.


Welcome to the Sugar Dance. flip_cat
Welcome to the Vampire Club.

If I can do it, ANYONE can!!!
It does get easier. Trust us.

You need to test BEFORE you shoot. It usually goes: Test, Feed, Shoot



There's a saying something like "better the sugar level is too high for a day than too low for a minute".

 

Thank you everyone for the replies. Haha, "blood alcohol level"! I was so upset that even reading it over twice for errors before posting, that escaped my attention. I have of course fixed that. My kitty is a diabetic, not an alcoholic.

Well, that first shot didn't go over so well. He's mad at me. It didn't seem to hurt him at all but he's not a fan of being touched below the neckline. I'm afraid that if I try to home test him he'll never let me near him a few minutes later to give him his shot. I actually have a one-touch mini for myself, although I don't know how much the test strips are (a friend gave me it). I'm not diabetic myself but my levels get to the very lowest of normal range so I'm keeping an eye on that. Thank you for the recommendations. That one at Walmart sounds like a good deal if the test strips end up being expensive for the one I have.

 

so you shot 2u without testing first?

 

Well the vet's instructions didn't include testing. I was to give him the shot twice a day for a week and then bring him back for more blood work. Obviously I'd prefer testing first after reading everything here. I honestly don't think he going to allow it. I have to have him professionally groomed because after about a minute of brushing, he'll bite.

 

Hometesting is VERY important. Most of us here use a human meter. Think of it as a human diabetic does. *If it were you or a child of yours, you'd be testing blood glucose levels at home prior to each shot; you'd be working with your doctor to determine a proper dose based on those shot results, correct?* Some vets do not agree with hometesting and I cannot for the life of me understand why. Most vets, sadly are not knowledgeable enough in feline diabetes. Insulin is a VERY powerful drug and you NEED to hometest before giving a shot. This is very important. The vet would rather have you bring the cat to them, stress it out more, which may spike the levels anyway and then they can charge you $$. Hometesting saved me a lot of money and it is VERY important for you personally to know the cat’s levels and how it is reacting to the insulin before you shoot so you do not pass up your ideal dosage.

Thanks to everyone's help here I learned to home test 2 cats and they both got off insulin within 3 weeks with diet change…but of course, they reacting both DIFFERENTLY with the process. If I can do it with 2 cats twice a day (and more on curve days), ANYONE can do it. It does NOT hurt them as much as you think it does. It just stings for a moment and then it is gone, you can try it on yourself. Also, put pressure on the ear after poking and it should minimize the nub. They won't mind it once they start feeling better. I use the True Track meter (CVS or Walgreens brand) which I love. And, the strips are also reasonable. Also, remember to give them a treat after the test. Here is a link to a member videos on hometesting:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zE12-4fVn8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ6iXetR398

Where are you located? Maybe there is a member near you that could come over and help you with the testing?

 

Specifically I'm in Lockport, NY...about a half hour drive from either Niagara Falls or downtown Buffalo.

I have a meter...had 2 strips left. I just tried testing him now. The first prick got only a tiny dot of blood...not enough. I tried it again and just as some blood appeared he had enough and bolted. Now he's not letting me near him again

 

Typical when first starting to test kitties.

Best to have a good supply of strips on hand at first.

It does get easier.

 

Here's a thought....

You are new and this is pretty overwhelming, and the stress of your financial situation doesn't help either. So how about cutting that dose in 1/2 until you can get some more strips and get consistent at hometesting? Testing at first does involve a few wasted strips unfortunately...

Now about testing...does your cat normally let you touch him?

Jen

 

Jen,

He loves being scratched around the neck, mane and ears. But he's not so cool with his lower body being handled. I can brush him only briefly before I get "the warning nip", that he's had enough. He's very good for groomers and at the vet's but he's too comfortable with me and at home. It's not the shot that bothered him, it was me tenting his skin. Oh well, he'll have to get used to it. But he hid after my attempt to test him and if that's going to be his reaction to testing, then I won't be able to administer the shot; especially if I have somewhere to be in the morning. I mean, I don't want this to be traumatizing for him to the point where I'm dragging him out of a hiding spot and pinning him down.

I'm going to need a to get a new meter anyhow. I looked into it and the one I have, the strips are insanely expensive (probably why my friend didn't use that one and gave it to me). I talked to my vet again tonight and she said the 2u is a low dose and half of what she expects he'll end up needing; I don't know.

 

Tenting should take half a second while you grab a hunk of fur and inject...

As for testing, just find a way that works for you without restraining. And for both, don't project fear and don't apologize; he needs both, neither hurt him and both will help him feel better and he'll soon figure it out.

As for the dose, its not huge but he can become hypoglycemic on it if it is too much, and you don't know if it is too much or too little yet.

Jen

 

I woke up this morning 3 hours earlier than I actually have to be up so that he could get his insulin on time. (I will be buying a meter later today hopefully.) As soon as I tented his skin he scooted. There's only so much you can do with one hand when the other has the needle. I tried to hold him but wrenched away as I went for the injection, bending the needle. I don't know if he even got any of the insulin or if it just went in his fur. This cat tries to bolt the second you touch the fur on his back. The only thing more I could have done would be to sit over him and pin him to the ground which would be horrible. I've been crying for the past hour. And then I am supposed to prick his ear to test him AND get him to hold still for a shot a few minutes later?

 

Hi Jamie,

I can tell u it does get easier, much easier!
You have to try to stay calm, cats sense when u stress and are upset so they react to that as well.
If u have little treats, offer them - treat association eventually - they clue in.

Try not to be in a rush, it takes time, patience, practice and a lot of snugglies.
Before u test and shoot, sit with him, gently talking to him and petting him. The key at the beginning is to stay calm.
Don't give up ok?
Testing his BG levels is one the SAFEST things you can do for Colby, and treating with insulin is a life saver!
:YMHUG:

 

where and how did you tent?

question - does he have back issues that may contribute to this?

Jen

 

Well he has long hair and a thick coat, so i need to push back the fur a bit. This is what he really dislikes. I was going on his back, not on his spine but closer to it...where the vet went...it's hard to explain really. Anyhow, tonight he was sleeping and I started with petting him while he was sleepy. I gave him the shot closer to his shoulder (?) and it went well. I know he should eat and then get the shot but this doesn't seem to work well. So I fed him immediately after giving him the shot. He's a very good eater and will eat the second the food is in his dish so doing it this way I think will be best unless someone tells me otherwise.

And no, he doesn't have back issues, just sensitive skin.; not a fan of having his back, hind end, or paws touched.

 

Just wanted to stop by and say welcome. I am a newbie to the website also and I do not know about you but seems to have a lot of good information on it. And everyone seems really nice and concerned. The only advise I can offer you is just keep with it and keep us all up todate I plan on doing that. Also, start the spreadsheet that everyone talks about it is a great one. My cat has had diabetes since June and I have been trying to find something to track all of my info and I think I just found it in the spreadsheet.


Jen

 

Way to go!!! You obviously know your cat and are finding ways to do this. As impossible as it now seems, we have ALL had much the same experience, and believe it or not, you WILL be able to do it and eventually it will be a piece of cake. Good luck!

 

Your location may be the problem; grab hhis scruff like a mommy cat and jqab at an angle into it

 

The shoulder/hip area seems to be working well for the shot and the key seems to be getting him while he eats his canned food.

The testing is another story. I bought a new meter that only requires 0.3 micro liters as opposed to the 1 micro liter required by the meter than I had. That was the problem with that one; I couldn't get enough blood quick and quick enough. Well, now he knows why I'm going for his ear and as soon as I do, he flattens them to his head. Three tries and the lancet that came with the new meter simply wasn't getting anything. I tried to switch to the old on but he had enough and backed away and into a spot where I could barely reach him. When I tried, he snapped at me. Yea...I was the one almost getting blood drawn. He didn't come out until I served up his final dish of canned food for the evening. I gave him the shot while he ate.

I'm going to try testing at a different time. I know ideally we want to test before we shoot but it's just too much being handled for him all at once. I'm going to try to catch him while he's sleepy. And maybe if he can get used to it that way, it won't be such a big deal for him when he's more alert.

 

Are you sure giving him treats after every poke, successful or not? That is one of the secrets. They begin to associate treats with the pokes and start to expect (demand) both. Even if you don't get blood, give lots of praise and some sort of a treat.

 

My cat was most aggressive about letting me know she was NOT going to be tested, and for more than a week I thought she was right. We suffered and suffered. But I persisted, and then I found the clothespin trick and the modified burrito. The clothespins were almost magical in their calming effect. And by wrapping her loosely in a fleece blanket, I was able to hold on to her. At first my husband had to help, but soon I was able to do it myself, and ultimately didn't even need the blanket. I will look for the link and try to include it. This might not work for you, but I assure you, you will find a way and eventually it will be sooooo much easier!

http://www.felinecrf.org/giving_sub-qs_ ... _peg_trick