Newbie

Hello Everyone,

I took my 14 year old cat to the vet this past Friday and yesterday I was informed that he has both diabetes and pancreatitis.

In one day I was buying syringes, insulin, fancy feast and then learning how to administer shots of B12 and insulin. In addition to that an IV drip.

Yesterday was quite overwhelming but today is a new day. My first shot alone went well but I cannot confirm if it was administered successful. I hope this evening I can get better with that.

It is already a life style changing experience however I love Chester and I am willing to do what I can to ensure his remaining years are the best they can be.

I am an open book and ready to receive and tips and knowledge on this topic.

 

Hello and welcome. I am not experienced with pancreatitis myself. More knowledgeable people will pop in to help you.

Just wanted to say hi.

 

Welcome! Sounds like you had a pretty rough day yesterday! It's all pretty overwhelming (you'll see that word used frequently here, lol) but it really does get better, I promise. I'm not too experienced with the pancreatitis thing (had dog that had it years ago) so I can't help with that, but I'm sure someone will be along soon to answer your questions.

If you go to our search bar and type in pancreatitis, lots of posts regarding it will come up and that should give you some pretty good info to get you started.

 

Welcome to FDMB.
Here is a Primer on Pancreatitis you may find helpful.

 

Hi there. Welcome to you and Chester. My, but you two have had a baptism of fire!

My Saoirse has chronic pancreatitis. Here are some links to resources that I have found invaluable in helping me to learn about and manage the condition for her:

Nausea Symptoms and Treatments

IDEXX Pancreatitis Treatment Guidelines

Feeding small, frequent meals helps a lot with pancreatitis management. Timed feeders are an absolute godsend because they will take a lot of the donkey work out of making sure Chester gets mini meals throughout the day and night (and you'll be able to get some sleep! ). The small meals are easier on the digestive system and they help prevent problems with excess stomach acid.

Saoirse's first pancreatitis flare was awful. I just couldn't get her to eat and she became very poorly indeed. Thanks to members here I learned about the medicines that could help. Saoirse improved fairly quickly when I got the right treatments in place. It's great that Chester is already getting a course of B12; it really helped Saoirse a great deal.

What meds has your vet prescribed for Chester? If you don't already have them, I'd suggest asking your vet about ondansetron for nausea, cyproheptadine for appetite stimulation (caveat: check liver function with vet first), and also about famotidine for excess stomach acid. If you keep a supply of these at home you may never need to give them to Chester but if he were to get symptomatic again you would be able to treat the first signs of nausea very quickly. This can make a world of difference in the effective management of chronic pancreatitis since it keeps the cat much more comfortable and greatly reduces the possibility of appetite loss.

Food is the trickiest thing of the lot. If you learn the signs Chester gives if he is feeling queasy or uncomfortable, it can give some clues to help you identify foods that don't agree with him (e.g. sitting in a hunched meatloaf position after eating; hiding; sitting on a cool surface such as a tiled floor) . Some cats with pancreatitis are extremely fat sensitive, others may be sensitive to fats from specific sources (e.g. Saoirse can't tolerate salmon or sunflower oils but is relatively OK with other animal fats). There can be a lot of trial and error required to find a good food.

If you need to make any changes to diet, supplements, etc., it helps to change just one thing at a time wherever possible - and to make any changes slowly and steadily. I also found it invaluable to keep a brief daily journal of Saoirse's behaviours, clinical signs and responses to foods/supplements/medications in the spreadsheet I use to track her blood glucose data. Click on the link in my signature to get an idea. It builds into a very helpful reference tool over time (and it's invaluable when you're trying to backtrack to something that worked in the past).

One of the simplest and most helpful things I found for Saoirse was to raise her food and water bowls. If she is a little reluctant to eat sometimes, warming her food a little bit helps too.

Pancreatitis flares are tough going on both kitties and their guardians. Our little ones can look very poorly indeed during the height of a flare but they are also capable of amazing recoveries when they start eating properly again. I hope that Chester feels much better very soon.


Mogs


EDITED TO ADD: I've tried a number of different timed feeders; I found the best one to be the Petsafe 5.
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Thanks so much for the welcome! It is SURELY and TRULEY appreciated! TY

 

Thank you so much!

 

I am so there! Thanks so much!

 

I must say this is very helpful! Right now he just has the Lantus insulin, B12 and IV fluid (for the week). I have started him on some of the Fancy Feast as before he was diagnosed he would not touch the hard food he use to love.

I will definitely as my vet about the nausea and appetite stimulation. I am grateful that he has his appetite back for the moment.

My vet told me about the journal so thank you for the attached. I definitely needed it!

Again my sincerest appreciation for the information.

 

Welcome to FDMB! What is your kitty's name and yours? Wow, your first day was I a lot to deal with. Just so you know that with each day, it does get a little easier with a few expected bumps here and there, however, you have come to the right place for support. There are a lot of caring and experience folks here. You will be given a whole lot of information and at first, it will seem very overwhelming however in a couple of weeks, things will start falling into place. Below is general information and it will also help you start your shopping lists. Congratulations for finding this place and for seeking more information on feline diabetes.

Good Reading: This is a must read. It is an excellent 18 page informative document that covers feline health and nutrition. Don't take short cuts and read it all. www.catinfo.org Also read other postings and their spreadsheets. You will learn a lot more from others.

Home Testing: Here, we all home test and congratulations to you for wanting to home test too. It is mandatory to understand how your kitty is reacting to the insulin and the dose. You will want to test before each shot and some additional test in between the 12 hour cycle when you can. The main reason to home test is to keep your kitty safe and to find an effective dose. Find a place in your home where you will always perform the test and give lots of hugs and treats before and after testing. There are many videos showing you how to test. Hometesting Links and TipsHere is a picture of where you test on your kitty. http://s106.photobucket.com/user/chupie_2006/media/testingear/sweetspot.jpg.html

Here is another good link on Home Testing:http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-home-test.htm

Meters: There are many different meters. There is a pet meter called the Alpha Trak2 and human meters. Some use the pet meter because it is what the vets use so the numbers will match up. The meter and strips are expensive though. Most folks buy AT strips from ADW. Most use human meters that can be purchased at any pharmacy. It typically reads a little lower than the pet meter but we have ways of compensating for those lower numbers. Many use Walmart's brand, Relion Micro, Relion Prime or Relion Confirm. The Micro and Confirm only needs a tiny drop of blood but the strips are a little more expensive than the Prime which needs a little bigger drop of blood. They cost around $15 and the strips are around 35 cents each. The AT strips are usually around $1 each at the vet’s office.

Lancets: Lancets are used to poke the ear to get blood for the meters. There are many different sizes lancets (gauges). It is recommended when you are first starting out to use a 26-28 gauge because it is a larger size and will make a bigger hole, hence easier to draw blood. Also, it would be a good idea to pick up Neosporin WITH pain reliever to apply on the edge of the ears and don't forget to alternate ears. It is a bit scary at first to start poking the ear, but eventually it will become easier for both you and your kitty. Some people even draw blood from the paw pad.

Spreadsheets: Our spreadsheet instructions are here. If you look at the signatures of the members here, you will see a link to their kitty’s spreadsheets. We keep track of all our tests. This is basically a place to collect data and help you to determine patterns, doses, etc. It also aids those that may be helping you to better understand your kitty. To further my knowledge on diabetes, I would make it a habit to read other kitty’s postings and spreadsheets. Even though they are all different and will be different than your kitty, it was still invaluable information.

Food: There are many reasons why we are here but one is due to feeding dry cat food which is high in carbs. You will want to consider changing your food to wet, low carb food. It is recommended to feed food that is under 10% carbs and I found with Merlin that right around 4-5% worked for him. Here is a list of cat food to choose from food chartyou will note that the food with fish are lower in carbs however it is recommended that you only give fish once a week due to its mercury content. Many use Fancy Feast, 9 Lives, Friskies, Wellness, Werurva etc. This list can also be found in www.catinfo.org If you are already giving insulin and you have not transitioned to wet, low carb cat food, be sure to test while you are transitioning. This is because by changing to low carb food, it could decrease your kitty’s number by 100 points or more. One last thing, many of us add water to the wet food so your kitty is getting plenty of water to flush out the toxins and to keep them hydrated.

Hypo Kit: Always good to be prepared for possible hypo events (low blood sugar) which means that your cat has reached dangerously low numbers. It can be fatal, hence, the importance of home testing and collecting data in a spreadsheet. In each of the Insulin forums are stickie’s labeled Hypo Links. Here is one: How to Handle a Hypo. Please print and post on your refrigerator so everyone in your household is aware of hypo symptoms. You will want to create your hypo kit that would include and not limited to; extra testing strips, honey/karo/maple syrup, high carb food, medium carb food, vet information, etc. Hopefully you will never need it but probably at some point in time, you will need to deter from going too low.

Ketones: Diabetic cats are susceptible to diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). It is best to buy testing strips that will measure (if any) ketones in the urine. One brand is Ketostix which can be found at Walmart or any pharmacy. You will want to test periodically unless you continue to get high numbers, then it is suggested to test more frequently. Ketostix typically costs around $10 for 100.

Treats: It is always nice to have treats available for your kitty especially when testing or when they decide not to eat. I like using Pure Bites. I have found it at Petsmart and other pet stores. It is freeze dried and the only ingredient is the meat i.e. chicken, duck, etc. If your cat likes it, then I would go to the dog section where it is cheaper than the cat package. It is bigger chunks but no problem in breaking it up. Another option is to use Bonita Flakes where you can find at your local Asian market. There is a link here somewhere in this site that has a list of low carb treats.

Injections: Some of the insulins that folks use are Lantus, Levemir, Prozinc, Humulin, Novolin Vetsulin, etc. The first three are a little longer lasting than the last three. Two hours prior to your insulin shot, you will not want your kitty to eat. The reason is because food will elevate the BG number and you do not want to shoot based on a higher number. Then you test and then feed. It is best for your kitty to eat a little before your shoot. I shoot while he is eating. Here is a link on how to give injections.http://www.felinediabetes.com/injections.htm If you are using Humulin, Novolin, Vetsulin, etc. it is best to ensure that your kitty has eaten all of their meal; say about 20-30 minutes before you shoot.

If you have any questions, just holler.

 

I'm glad to do something to help you. I was very grateful to other members here who helped me when Saoirse was very poorly.


Mogs
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Oh dear, you have so much on your plate. Good thing you're here. Welcome to the forum. Hope your kitty gets to feeling much better soon!

 

Thanks so much Jeanne! Just the last couple of days have made a difference.

 

Hi Debrisha, (beautiful name )

Just checking in to see how yourself and Chester are getting on.


Mogs
.

 

Hi Mogs,

Thank you! Chester has been "okay". I am still not sure what would be bad signs, however this morning I was feeding him a small amount before I give him his insulin shot and he threw up within 15 minutes. I waited another 30 minutes before giving him a small amount of canned food that he liked the day before. So far that has not come back up however he was doing some "meowing" today and I just hope I did not do something wrong.

He was hungry so I am not sure if that flavor (Fancy Feast Beef and Chicken) just does not agree with him or if I am doing something wrong? When this happens do I not administer the shot? Do I try to feed him something different and if so when, right after?
In terms of amount how much should Chester eat? I do not want to starve him but I also do not know what a good amount is. He still has a great appetite at the moment and I do not want to mess that up.

I am ordering the Alpha Trak2 tomorrow so that by next Monday I can start testing. To be honest I am just really scared and I want to get this right for him.

 

We have a cat that will vomit anything with beef in it. Maybe try cooking just some plain chicken or non breaded fish and giving a table spoon at a time.

Just a note, when posting Chester's bg numbers, make sure you state that they're AT numbers as most on here use human meters which run lower.

Actually, if you get a chance, you might look at other's posts to see what they list in their signatures, then do the same, it helps us to know these things so we can make informed suggestions.

 

(((Debrisha)))

Oh, how I feel for you. I was in bits and absolutely terrified when Saoirse had the really bad flare the year before last. Having the likes of pancreatitis and IBD to contend with alongside diabetes is tough because of the food side of things. There's no magic formula; what agrees with one kitty may not be OK for another one.

Positives first: it is fantastic news that Chester's appetite is good! That is the biggest hurdle of the lot. Because of how their metabolisms work it is vital that cats eat regularly. Both diabetic and non-diabetic cats are at risk of developing hepatic lipidosis if they don't eat, but diabetic kitties are also at risk of developing diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). Both happen as a result of disruption to normal metabolic processes. The first condition is where fatty deposits build up in the liver, and the second is where the cat starts developing ketones which then leads to their whole system being thrown out of whack. Both are potentially life-threatening. You're doing really well to keep Chester eating regularly - not least of all because it ensures he gets his insulin. If you do get feeding hiccups around injection time, if Chester is willing to eat a food he gets on with straight away then that's good. It is a worry over what to do about insulin. I suggest you contact your vet to ask about what to do in such a situation - perhaps ask your vet to advise on a suitable 'token' dose to use - especially for times when you won't be able to check BG levels mid-cycle. Always you can post on Feline Health and ask for help from members here if you're not sure what to do.

With pancreatitis and food it's very much trial and error, unfortunately. You're not doing anything wrong in the slightest; it's just a discovery process. If you find a food disagrees with Chester, discontinue it but also closely examine the ingredients so that you will gradually build up a list of foods and additives that trigger bad reactions and so you'll know to avoid them. As Tammy advises above, some cats don't get on with beefy recipes (it spike's Saoirse's blood glucose levels big time). If you find a food that does agree with Chester, feed away! Also, keep a stock of that particular food in reserve at home all the time so that you'll always be confident of having something to hand that he can eat reliably (just in case he has a wobble symptom-wise).

Sometimes if a cat fasts too long stomach acid can irritate their stomachs and that can cause them to vomit (usually foamy, clearish liquid). You can combat that by leaving no longer than about 3 hours between feeds. (Timed feeders like the Petsafe 5 are a great help.) Chester needs to have both his food and his insulin. If he's happy to eat a different food after a hiccup with one that agrees with him and he keeps it down OK, that's a win. As to the mewling, all you can do with that is ask your vet about it and also log the where and when of it to see if you can find a pattern. FWIW, sometimes Saoirse mewls in the kitchen if she wants a bit more food, but it took repeated observations for me to be sure of that. Let your vet know about the vomiting and perhaps ask him about Cerenia if it persists. (Just for general reference, constipation can sometimes cause a cat to vomit.)

When it comes to learning how to determine what does and doesn't agree with Chester, the nausea symptom checker I posted a link for in my earlier post is very helpful as a guide to what to look for in his behaviour and clinical signs. Hiding is another clue, as is lethargy. Meatloafing is very common when they're feeling queasy. I'll post a photo of the uncomfy, tense meatloaf position in a subsequent post on this thread.

According to Dr Pierson on her catinfo.org site, "the average cat should eat ~180 - 220 calories per day which will be found in 5-6 ounces of the average canned food." A digital baby scales is a great aid for kitty weight management. You can pick one up at a reasonable price off Ebay or Amazon. If you record how much food you give in Chester's journal and weigh him, say, once a week it will help you to work out the right amount of food. Here's a handy calculator to help you get a rough idea of how many calories there are in the foods Chester gets on with. Also, here's a body condition chart so that you can assess whether Chester is getting the right amount of food. If he's underweight, feed more or if he's overweight feed a little less until he reaches his ideal weight. (Note: if Chester needs to lose weight it needs to be done very gradually. Dr Pierson advises on this page that weight loss should be slow - about 1-2% weight loss per week.)

Sending some reassuring


Mogs
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Uncomfortable, tense meatloaf position: