Not using litterbox?

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Juliet & Diggy

Juliet & Diggy

Member Since 2016
Diggy has been very infrequently using his litterbox for months now, and that's actually what led me to take him into the vet and get him diagnosed with diabetes. It started with peeing in a few different places, but still using the litterbox maybe once. So I tried switching litters a bunch of times and no matter what I tried, he would use it maybe even once, and then just choose the floor.

Once I got him in and diagnosed with diabetes, they said he'd stop drinking and peeing so much and start using the box again. He has stopped drinking as much, but now his urine is gross instead of the basically pure water it used to be. So now if I don't get to it immediately, it just turns disgusting and starts solidifying. He's also started pooping on the floor now. It's not an issue of having a dirty box, because he never uses it. I also got a litter genie to ensure it will be cleaned every single day, no matter how lazy I feel. I just never get the chance to use it.

I have tried every floor cleaner out there designed to remove the enzymes to prevent remarking, and I've looked up all the tips and tricks to get him to use the box but he won't. Is this a stubborn thing or a medical issue?

He's destroying the floor and the baseboard and I'm sick of mopping multiple times a day. If he's still not feeling well then I want to help him in any way I can.
 
I wonder if he might have a urinary infection? Not just because of the behaviour but also the solidifying urine, often with infection there is a lot of protein in the urine. On the cleaning issue, I use a laundry liquid with enzymes ('biological' they call it here) in very hot water and mop then allow to dry. Cats can be fussy with litter so I would try switching back to the one he is used to.

Ask your vet if they can do a cystocentesis and culture of the urine, if there is chronic infection it may need a prolonged course of antibiotic to clear it.
 
When he was diagnosed they checked for infection, but it can't hurt to check again. I have to call tomorrow anyway, I'll definitely see about scheduling an appointment.

And I switched back to the last litter I remember him using. Up until the last few months, he was always such an easy going cat and I could switch up his food and litter and he never had a problem with anything, so I never had a specific litter that I'd buy every single time.

And thanks for the laundry detergent tip. I'll try it out!
 
So sorry you're having issues with Diggy using the litterbox. There are numerous reasons cats do this. In most cases, it turns out to be a medical issue, but it can also be for other reasons, too... an aversion to specific litters, the pan being too high for a cat with mobility issues, multiple cats using the same litter pan, not enough privacy where the pan is placed, children in the house, etc. Have you tried setting multiple pans around the house in various locations? Sometimes that helps. I have only one kitty and have 3 pans for her to choose from. Until you can figure out what's going on with Diggy, you can try using puppy piddle pads under and around the litter pan. They help with mishaps close to the pan, making cleanup much easier. As for floor cleaners, they may not be the most efficient answer to your cleanup problem. I've had good luck with both Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Urine Destroyer and Simple Solution Extreme Stain+Odor Remover... both excellent products. If you can't find them in a local store, they're readily available online. Good luck in getting to the root of Diggy's problem. I know how frustrating this can be.
 
I have a behavioral pee-er that will urinate on the beds, on my clothes, on a blanket etc in times of stress or change - not consistently, but off and on for most of his life (12 years). If it's behavioral, I would try Feli-way plug-ins to see if that can reduce any stress. I also use washable "bed-wetting" covers so that in case he pees, it doesn't soak through and I can just throw it in the wash. That might save your carpets some damage.
 
Ah LB issues, I know them well. I had to retrain Smokey when he was 16 yrs old. He still won't poop in box, but will on puppy pad. If you have covered boxes, try removing the lids. Maybe a larger box is necessary. Smokey is a large kitty, previous owner was using a real tiny box with lid., he couldn't turn around in it. Make sure you scoop after each use much like you flush each time. Smokey won't go until previous is removed. Wash it (soap, water, bleach) out once a week. Eventually the odor gets into the plastic and pan needs to be replaced. Make sure pan is away from all walls, nothing worse then having a pan against the wall or in corner, cats walks in and his head or face hits wall.

I put a shower liner or plastic tablecloth from dollar store on floor, puppy pads on top in the center, then the box. Unscented litter is best. Strong scent will discourage it's use. Wegmans has a nice litter (it's one I use among others) I also have a box with just a puppy pad in it and no litter. He will use it occasionally.

Just my tips, good luck.
 
Get your vet to check B12 and potassium levels. Both can cause hindquarter weakness that may feed into problems with inappropriate elimination in diabetic cats. If B12 is low then neuropathy may be the issue. It can be treated with methylcobalamin (e.g. Zobaline). If potassium levels are off then any treatment needs to be closely supervised by your vet because both too much and too little potassium can be dangerous and blood levels need to be monitored regularly during any veterinary treatment.


Mogs
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@julietb19 , my cat Turkey has been having some litter box issues as well. His diabetes isn't well controlled yet and the litter box issues started up probably about 2 months ago (he was diagnosed about 1 month ago) and have continued. His boxes are in the basement and he's going in them about 90% of the time and peeing beside them about 10% of the time. I clean them twice and day and bought him an extra large box which he seems to like. Knock on wood, he isn't eliminating anywhere other than beside/near the litter boxes but it was ruining the carpet in that part of the basement. I purchased a large plastic tarp from WalMart and put that under the boxes and it's helped tremendously with clean up. When Diggy is going outside the box, is it in the box vicinity or in other parts of the house? If it's the former maybe the tarp and larger boxes would help, at least for clean up?
 
TurkeyCat said:
@julietb19 , my cat Turkey has been having some litter box issues as well. His diabetes isn't well controlled yet and the litter box issues started up probably about 2 months ago (he was diagnosed about 1 month ago) and have continued. His boxes are in the basement and he's going in them about 90% of the time and peeing beside them about 10% of the time. I clean them twice and day and bought him an extra large box which he seems to like. Knock on wood, he isn't eliminating anywhere other than beside/near the litter boxes but it was ruining the carpet in that part of the basement. I purchased a large plastic tarp from WalMart and put that under the boxes and it's helped tremendously with clean up. When Diggy is going outside the box, is it in the box vicinity or in other parts of the house? If it's the former maybe the tarp and larger boxes would help, at least for clean up?
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I'd say it's always within 10 feet of the box. I keep his box in the downstairs bathroom and there's a small hallway that leads to it and he seems to like to pee there, so it can go under the door and into the closets :mad: But the bathroom is smaller than where I used to live, so I did downsize his box when I moved here. At this point nobody uses that bathroom anymore because there's basically always going to be a puddle of pee and I can't seem to get the smell out, so I plan on getting a bigger box again to see if that'll help.

I also do use puppy pads near the closets, and I even get the extra large size, but usually they can't hold his amount of pee. Or he'll decide to go right near the corner or something so there's no way the pad can catch it all.
 
Critter Mom said:
Get your vet to check B12 and potassium levels. Both can cause hindquarter weakness that may feed into problems with inappropriate elimination in diabetic cats. If B12 is low then neuropathy may be the issue. It can be treated with methylcobalamin (e.g. Zobaline). If potassium levels are off then any treatment needs to be closely supervised by your vet because both too much and too little potassium can be dangerous and blood levels need to be monitored regularly during any veterinary treatment.


Mogs
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I don't think it would be neuropathy becuase his back legs don't look weak at all. When he stands, his back end almost looks more elevated than his front. But thanks, for the suggestion, and he is going to the vet today to get checked out. I think they'll do a urine and a blood test.
 
I use top paws extra large pads. It holds all of Smokey urine. And boy does he put out since he's on lasix. I overlap the edges. I also have a puppy litter box and put just a puppy pad in it, no litter and he will use that sometimes.
 
julietb19 said:
I'd say it's always within 10 feet of the box. I keep his box in the downstairs bathroom and there's a small hallway that leads to it and he seems to like to pee there, so it can go under the door and into the closets :mad: But the bathroom is smaller than where I used to live, so I did downsize his box when I moved here. At this point nobody uses that bathroom anymore because there's basically always going to be a puddle of pee and I can't seem to get the smell out, so I plan on getting a bigger box again to see if that'll help.

I also do use puppy pads near the closets, and I even get the extra large size, but usually they can't hold his amount of pee. Or he'll decide to go right near the corner or something so there's no way the pad can catch it all.
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Ugh, that's frustrating that he's going in the hallway on the way to the litterbox. To prevent the runoff into the closets, maybe look for those draft stopper things that people use in winter time at the bottom of doors?
 
I really appreciate this topic and would like to thank @Sharon14 for the helpful link and @julietb19 for starting this thread. I used to post here under 'Audrey's Mom', but silly me forgot or didn't write down my log-in information and I hadn't posted for some time, so I've had to start anew with a new profile and slight name change. I got away from the boards for a bit.

I'm undergoing the same problem with Audrey cat as you are with Diggy. I honestly don't think Audrey has ever truly seemed regulated with her insulin and she was diagnosed December of 2014. I might as well be shooting saline or water into her (2 units x daily) instead of Levemir. Took her to the vet again a couple of weeks ago. She did indeed have a bladder infection and has now been on an antibiotic called Veraflox (28cc in food once daily until done). 2 weeks later and a bit to go yet, no improvement in the "outside the box business". Vet said let's tackle this infection first, and after she's done the meds, this vet wants me to do an at home 24 hour glucose curve and bring the results back to her for further review. That was a bonus that this nice lady vet is encouraging and accepting of home testing! The vet also apologized for the initial diabetes diagnosis in the fact that their clinic lagged with follow up and we fell through the cracks a bit. Great clinic...I sure like this vet more than the last one at this well regarded clinic.

I literally keep my mop out permanently. It's never put away, and I change the water constantly. I am cleaning up huge lakes all the time. Every time I turn around, there seems to be another one. Always in different and weird places now (Surprise!) - and now she's starting to poop everywhere as well. It's extremely tiring. Thank goodness we keep the carpeted bedrooms doors closed (which bites) and the rest of our home is about 12 year old laminate flooring, which needs to be replaced soon enough, but not until this gets nipped in the bud. Our laminate is starting to buckle in some lesser travelled places if I'm not home to mop right away. It's really bringing me down.

I've tried buying a brand new litter box, trying 2 litter boxes, changing location from its original spot, taking the litter box lids off, still using same brand of litter we always have from when she was a kitten (she's around 11 now and has never been a litter snob in the few times we had to buy a different brand), and an entire host of suggestions I've read online. I've not tried the pee pads yet in her box (sans kitty litter). That's my next step. And yes, it has, in cases, seeped under the baseboards and is so gross.

There has been a change in our household which I was thinking about the other day. Our beloved almost 18 yr. old little Shih-Tzu had to be put down in April, and the pets quite liked each other. Audrey though was peeing outside the box then and before then about 25-50% of the time. Now it seems to be about 99%. Sometimes the base and perimeter of the litter box is literally dripping with urine. Her box has always been conveniently located in our main floor laundry room just off of our kitchen, and there has never been a placement issue.

I apologize if I derailed this thread with my own venting, but I totally understand the frustration that Diggy is putting you through as well. Hopefully there will be a solution for you and Diggy boy! All I know is that I'm at my wit's end. My spouse isn't too happy about the situation and he doesn't see the half of it as he travels frequently for work through the week. He's not a cat hater, but neutral. This is ticking him off.

I'm not sure what kind of cleaner to recommend personally (I think I've tried everything!) I do know, as mentioned previously that they should be enzyme-based cleaners. Sometimes I have given up in that department, as I know there will just be another puddle re-appearing. I've asked our adult children when they visit if they can smell lingering cat urine and they don't, so maybe something is working?

In passing conversations with colleagues, acquaintances, some of the hard nosed ones have said have said they'd put a pet down who did this. I, for one, would NEVER, EVER put a pet down for accidents. We take our chances and know that might be part of the deal when we sign up to become parents to our beloved pets. When our precious dog started losing her faculties and near the end when there were constant puddles of pee and blood (poor baby!) we got through the unpleasantries. Now we need to battle this one too.

Keep us posted, Juliet on little Diggy (adorable name, by the way). Again, sorry for my rants and a possible hijacking of the thread, but I shall be following it and other urine related threads with great interest. Audrey will be seeing the vet in the next couple of weeks, after meds are done and I pry my eyes open to do a 24 hour glucose curve. I have all the equipment...just a matter of getting to it.
 
Audrey's Momma said:
I literally keep my mop out permanently. It's never put away, and I change the water constantly. I am cleaning up huge lakes all the time. Every time I turn around, there seems to be another one. Always in different and weird places now (Surprise!) - and now she's starting to poop everywhere as well. It's extremely tiring. Thank goodness we keep the carpeted bedrooms doors closed (which bites) and the rest of our home is about 12 year old laminate flooring, which needs to be replaced soon enough, but not until this gets nipped in the bud. Our laminate is starting to buckle in some lesser travelled places if I'm not home to mop right away. It's really bringing me down.
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That sounds exactly like me. I'm sorry to hear you're going through it as well. My boyfriend dislikes cats and thinks it's crazy all the stuff that I do for Diggy. One thing that I have tried that has a success rate of maybe 10% (which is higher than 0% so I'll take it) is that I sprinkle catnip in his box. I saw a thing of litter attractant at the store and it was probably like $20, and the ingredients listed simply said natural herbs. I thought it looked a lot like catnip, and I know catnip is also much cheaper, so I do sprinkle it on top occasionally. It seems to work for at least a little bit. But between all the mopping and cleaning, I don't always remember to add the catnip. Just something I thought I'd share!
 
I love that great tip, Juliet! Thanks for sharing. I do have some good quality catnip that I haven't used a lot of, but the Audster loves it. I used to rub it in between my fingers to release the scent and sprinkle some on her favourite thing ever, that crazy "Bergan Turbo Scratcher' . I never thought of adding some catnip sprinkles to her litter, but I'll certainly give it a whirl.

Yup...my mop.

My faithful mop friend always on standby. My new Vileda "Easy Wring" is a joy to use with the foot pedal pump for spinning stinky water out. At least it's fun to use, washable and gets into corners nicely. Lol. Never though I could love a mop like a best friend.

Thanks again for letting me vent and for the good tip worth trying. Don't worry, I don't have any affiliation with Vileda or Turbo Scratcher.

PS: I also enjoyed the name of TurkeyCat in this thread. A cat named Turkey can't help but make one smile.
 
Audrey's Momma said:
I love that great tip, Juliet! Thanks for sharing. I do have some good quality catnip that I haven't used a lot of, but the Audster loves it. I used to rub it in between my fingers to release the scent and sprinkle some on her favourite thing ever, that crazy "Bergan Turbo Scratcher' . I never thought of adding some catnip sprinkles to her litter, but I'll certainly give it a whirl.

Yup...my mop.

My faithful mop friend always on standby. My new Vileda "Easy Wring" is a joy to use with the foot pedal pump for spinning stinky water out. At least it's fun to use, washable and gets into corners nicely. Lol. Never though I could love a mop like a best friend.

Thanks again for letting me vent and for the good tip worth trying. Don't worry, I don't have any affiliation with Vileda or Turbo Scratcher.

PS: I also enjoyed the name of TurkeyCat in this thread. A cat named Turkey can't help but make one smile.
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Instead of buying your catnip at the pet store, you can buy better quality at herb shops. I buy mine at an online bulk herb supply company. I started buying it for me to put in my bedtime tea, and found it was much fresher. I could also get organic in .25lb or by the pound. 3 of my 4 cats love it. The other one ignores all catnip.
 
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For inappropriate elimination, always go to the vet and rule out any medical problems.

Here is a list I compiled previously. The gender, and some of the items may not apply.
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You might try an integrated approach using multiple options from the list below on a consistent basis:

* start with crating, using a medium large crate (30" long is big enough for cat and a litter box) until progress. She probably won't go where she'd have to lie in it ... but if she does, something is wrong and it may be medical.

* tarps and newspapers may be easier on clean up if you don't crate her

* feeding on a schedule and then placing her in the litterbox (maybe in a crate) within 15-20 minutes after eating, until she goes, then praising and letting her out.

* Feliway/Comfort Zone - friendly facial pheromones which reduce stress and may reduce marking behavior. Cheapest prices are usually on the net (ex http://www.LambertVetSupply.com ) I've used it and it helps.

* Cat Attract litter - supposed to help attract cat to litter box

* rule out arthritis or constipation - pain causes box avoidance

* watch if the other cats ever attack her in the box and if so, you may need to keep her separated from them. I've got one the others attack, completely unprovoked.

* litter box should be 1.5 times length of cat, litter cleaned frequently, but avoid really strong smelling cleaners as cats may avoid them due to the scent.

* you've got to get residual odors out from areas which were 'nailed'. If you don't get those spots thoroughly cleaned, any residual odor may trigger using the spot again. Enzyme based products such as Nature's Miracle, are the most likely to have success. Carpet may need to be rolled back and treated on the back side, plus treating the pad separately (or replacing the pad). It can require repeated applications.

* regular play sessions of about 15 minutes to reduce stress and promote bond with you

* reward desirable behaviors - if you see her use the box, praise and treat her

* put unpleasant textures in places she has peed to encourage avoidance

* read some of this author's books: http://www.catbehaviorassociates.com/ she's pretty good - ex "Starting from Scratch"
 
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