Quincy Cat has diabetes

Discussion in 'Feline Health - (Welcome & Main Forum)' started by quincycat, Feb 12, 2010.

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  1. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Hello, I am new here. My name is Lisa Marie. My poor cat Quincy who is 9 years old was just diagnosed with diabetes. We've been giving him insulin and checking his sugar daily. My mother is a nurse, so she knows the drill. His sugars are still in the 200-300s. We feed him what was given to him and give him insulin. I was wondering two things. Will it ever go down? And what are the symptoms when his glucose goes down? Thanks in advance...im scared about all this.
     
  2. Sue and Oliver (GA)

    Sue and Oliver (GA) Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Welcome Lisa Marie and Quincy,

    Yes, his levels should come down over time. How wonderful you and your mom are hometesting. Diet is also a big part of the puzzle. The best way to get a handle on this is to start reading. Check the FAQ's on the cover page. This website by a vet will help you understand the need for wet lo carb food: http://www.catinfo.org

    Can you give us some information on Quincy? What kind of insulin? How much? How often? Are the 200-300 numbers the blood glucose level before the shots? Are you getting some nadir numbers? What kind of food are you feeding?



    When his levels come down to a good number, you should see less peeing, less drinking and more energy.

    Learning about feline diabetes is a steep learning curve. But we all did it and survived! You can too, and we will be glad to help. Keep reading and asking questions.
     
  3. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Thank you kindly. :D

    Quincy has always been very lazy, but encourage him to play when he can. He plays and runs when he feels it,but usually he is lazy and laid back. He loves his cat nip toys and is very loving. Always lets us know when hes hungry. Humilin-N, 5 units in the AM and 5 units in the PM. And he is on a special diet, the food is prescription diet, m/d feline from the vet and thats all he is eating.


    Thank you for the link. I will be looking at that.
     
  4. LynnLee + Mousie

    LynnLee + Mousie Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Hi Lisa Marie, nice to meet you and Quincy.

    Let's get some more information from you and then we can see if we can help you work out the kinks here.

    When was Quincy diagnosed?
    What insulin are you using and how much do you give each time?
    And you say your mom knows the drill and mention daily numbers, does that mean you guys are hometesting? and if so, can you share his numbers with us.

    There could be several things going on such as it hasn't been long enough for the insulin to really work, could be the wrong dose of insulin, etc...
     
  5. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Pleasures all mine. Im so thankful for this website!


    Quincy was diagnosed this Monday and his sugars were 574 that day. Yesterday in the after noon it was 287 and this morning it was 397.

    Yes we have home testing, as heartbreaking as it its! But I know it saves his life.

    Novolin-N is what we're giving him. 5-units in the am and 5 units in the pm.
     
  6. Hope + (((Baby)))GA

    Hope + (((Baby)))GA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Lisa, please read and print out to have available the hypo info that our Melissa/Popcorn (GA) ans compiled.

    Your best defense against hypoglycemia is home blood glucose testing. If you’re not already doing so and your cat allows it, I HIGHLY recommend you test before each shot.

    Hypoglycemia or low blood sugar is a dangerous condition that must be treated immediately. Also known as insulin shock or insulin reaction, hypoglycemia occurs when there is too much insulin in the body potentially leading to neurological damage and/or death.

    Knowing how to respond to a hypoglycemic event whether or not symptoms are present can save the life of your diabetic cat. The following general guidelines are intended for those who home test the blood glucose levels in their cats. These guidelines are not intended to replace the advice given by your Veterinarian. It is very important that you discuss any and all treatment options with your cat’s physician BEFORE an event has occurred.

    SYMPTOMS
    Some cats may have NO symptoms whatsoever, but here are the most common ones:

    MILD HYPOGLYCEMIA
    Sudden ravenous hunger
    Shivering
    Weak or lethargic

    MODERATE HYPOGLYCEMIA
    Disorientation
    Trouble with vision... bumps into furniture
    Poor coordination, such as staggering, walking in circles or acting drunk
    Changes in head or neck movements
    Restlessness
    Urgent meowing
    Behavioral changes, such as aggressiveness

    SEVERE HYPOGLYCEMIA
    Convulsions or seizures
    Unconsciousness


    TREATMENT

    During treatment for hypoglycemia, try to test every 15 minutes until you see the bgs begin to rise. Then continue to test until you are satisfied that the cat is out of danger.

    VERY LOW NUMBERS – WITHOUT SYMPTOMS
    Retest glucose using a large blood sample to make certain you have enough blood, and if you still get a very low number (under 40 mg/dL or 1.9 – 2.2 mmol/L) administer a tablespoon of corn syrup, liquid glucose, pancake syrup or honey, or INSTA-GLUCOSE and follow with food until the blood glucose numbers rise to acceptable levels. The syrup can be mixed with wet food or poured over dry if the cat will eat the mixture. If using liquid glucose, dilute with water for a thinner consistency.

    LOW NUMBERS – WITHOUT SYMPTOMS
    Retest glucose using a large blood sample to make certain you have enough blood, and if you still get a low number (40 – 60mg/dL or 2.2 – 3.3mmol/L) give food or treats until the blood glucose numbers rise to an acceptable level. If the cat refuses to eat even his/her favorite foods, you can syringe feed or administer a small amount of syrup.

    LOW NUMBERS – MILD SYMPTOMS
    Try feeding first or give a little syrup or honey followed by food until the blood glucose numbers rise to an acceptable level and the symptoms disappear. The syrup can be mixed with wet food or poured over dry if the cat will eat the mixture. If the cat will not eat, syringe feed. If your cat will eat dry, feed this first as the high carbs will help to increase his/her bgs quickly. You can then follow with his/her favorite canned food. Keep in mind that giving syrup (Karo, etc.) or honey is not enough because the effects wear off quickly. You need to follow with food.
    IF IN ANY DOUBT, TELEPHONE YOUR VETERINARIAN.

    LOW NUMBERS – MODERATE SYMPTOMS
    Give a tablespoon of syrup, a teaspoon of liquid glucose, a tablespoon of honey or a tablespoon of sugar syrup followed by food and continue doing so until you see the blood glucose numbers rise to an acceptable level and all symptoms disappear. The syrup, honey, or glucose can be rubbed against the inside of the cat’s cheeks or on the gums for quick absorption. You can also mix the syrup with wet food or pour over dry if the cat will eat it. Continue to give syrup and food as needed and observe your cat for signs of recurring hypoglycemia. Keep in mind that giving syrup (Karo, etc.) or honey is not enough because the effects wear off quickly. You need to follow with food.
    IF IN ANY DOUBT, TELEPHONE YOUR VETERINARIAN.

    LOW NUMBERS – SEVERE SYMPTOMS
    Rub syrup, honey, or glucose on the gums and cheeks if your cat will allow it. Another option for administering syrup, diluted liquid glucose, honey or sugar syrup to a cat who is seizuring is to fill a needleless syringe with the mixture and insert via the rectum.
    NEVER TRY TO SQUIRT SYRUP, HONEY, OR GLUCOSE TO A CAT WHO IS SEIZURING AS THE CAT COULD CHOKE ON IT! RUSH TO EMERGENCY.

    AGAIN! ANYTIME YOU CAT IS SEIZURING OR LIMP, RUB KARO, GLUCOSE OR HONEY ONLY ON GUMS OR ADMINISTER RECTALLY AND GET TO EMERGENCY OR YOUR NEAREST CLINIC IMMEDIATELY!!!

    Remember that syrup or any other sugared syrup/preparation will spike the blood glucose ONLY for a short period of time, so food is really important with mild and moderate symptoms. Dry food (high carbohydrates) will keep the blood glucose numbers elevated longer, so it’s a better food to give during a hypoglycemic episode.

    After a hypoglycemic episode cats may be more sensitive to insulin, so a reduction in dosage is generally required, especially considering too much insulin – whether due to dosage, inadequate food intake, or the cat’s changing insulin requirements – caused the hypoglycemic event in the first place. With moderate to severe episodes, your Vet may have you skip the next injection altogether.
    IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DISCUSS YOUR CAT’S HYPOGLYCEMIC EVENT WITH YOUR VET, SO TOGETHER YOU CAN DECIDE UPON THE NEXT COURSE OF ACTION.

    Always keep in mind that with low blood glucose and no symptoms, the BG you get is not as important as where it is headed. In other words, if you get a BG of 100 mg/dL or 5.6 mmol/L or less and there are still several hours or more before the insulin peaks, your need to watch your cat (and the numbers) carefully and take appropriate steps. With very low numbers and NO SYMPTOMS, a cat can be fine one moment and seizuring the next.

    BE PREPARED! KNOW THE SYMPTOMS AND KNOW THE TREATMENT!


    Copyright © 1998-2010Melissa & Popcorn (GA) & Sushi (GA)
    Joined the FDMB: February 25, 1998Melissa&Popcorn(GA)

    Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 12:37 pm
    Private message
     
  7. Sue and Oliver (GA)

    Sue and Oliver (GA) Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    That is a lot of insulin. Usually cats start at .5 units or 1 unit twice a day. What dose did you start at? How long as Quincy been on it? Humulin N is not one of the newer insulins that people on this site have success with. Most people here use Lantus, Levemir or PZI. There are cats that have been regulated on N, but it is more difficult than one of the longer lasting, less harsh insulins. Here is a primer on N that will give you more information: http://www.felinediabetes.com/phorum5/r ... 241,831241

    What kinds of numbers have you gotten with the N? Usually it hits its lowest point in cats between +3 to +5 hours after the shot. Do you have some numbers in that time frame?
     
  8. Hope + (((Baby)))GA

    Hope + (((Baby)))GA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    N primer....Lisa, please read

    The N Primer
    Posted by: Kimber & Bunny (IP Logged)
    Date: April 17, 2008 03:42PM

    HUMULIN 101

    NOTE: Although this was originally written as a primer for N insulin, much of this is a GENERAL HUMULIN PRIMER with advice and experience that pertains to any of the ‘human’ insulins, including Lantus which I have found works very much like Humulin U.

    There are four kinds of Humulin Insulin: R, N (NPH), L (Lente) and U (UltraLente). Novolin is the same as Humulin N, just a different manufacturer.

    R most often is used at the vet hospital when a cat’s bg levels are very high and other health issues make it imperative to the numbers down fast. Occasionally it is used in small doses in combination with a longer acting insulin such as U but more often with the animal based insulins. Personally, I would never suggest this protocol to a novice. I would NEVER recommend R as an “only” insulin as it’s drop is very fast (some cats it takes only 15-20 minutes), very steep and it’s duration is often less than four hours.

    In cats, N tends to be the faster acting, often with rapid onset and little duration.

    N is not the easiest insulin to regulate on. However, there are several cats on this board who have been regulated on it. Bunny was regulated on Humulin N for just short of 5 years. Bunny, unlike most cats, got 12 hours duration out of the N.

    L tends to have a gentler drop and longer duration. Many cats that have a reaction to the N do better on the L because of the slower drop and the fact it stays in their system longer. (This insulin has been discontinued by the manufacturer.)

    U tends to have an even slower drop and longer duration than the L. Again, many cats adapt well to this insulin that have experienced a roller coaster ride on the N. (This insulin has been discontinued by the manufacturer.)

    Every Cat is Different, and not every cat will react the same to any given protocol or dosage. It is VITAL that all changes be discussed with your veterinarian who can talk about these options with you so that TOGETHER you can find what is best for your cat.

    There are some very important issues/points to remember when using N, most of these are pertinent for the other insulins as well.

    1. FOOD. Always make sure kitty eats about an hour before his/her shot. This will insure that kitty has food on her stomach to counteract the typical fast drop of the bg's caused by N (some cats do not drop fast on it, which is, again, why hometesting is so important!).

    Feeding an hour ahead also leaves you relatively sure the cat is going to keep the food down. Warning: We are dealing with cats here, which means nothing is guaranteed. Bunny vomited at peak, while we were asleep, and that is how we had our first hypo in over 5 years of treating diabetes.

    NOTE: Bunny free fed and seemed to know when he needed to eat, so we did not have to worry about his eating before hand. However, kitties getting timed feedings should be fed as stated.

    2. DO A CURVE/HOMETEST. This is a must with all insulins, but can really save you from hypo on N. You need to know when the insulin peaks because you need to know just how low the bg's are dropping. N, in my experience, can peak at anywhere from 2 to 6 hours. Before Bunny got sick, his peak was at around 5 (depending on exercise and food consumption) and after his cancer dx and subsequent hypo, we dropped down to two hours after shot. Needless to say, we have switched insulins.

    The importance of your peak/nadir/low number is two fold: A) You do not want to hypo your cat. High blood glucose @#$%& slow, low blood glucose KILLS FAST. B ) You cannot adjust a dosage on preshot alone. Preshot numbers can be deceiving in that if you are going too low at peak, you will have high numbers at preshot. It is kitty's body's way of saving it from overdose. Consistently high preshots without knowledge of your nadir number could mean rebound, at which point you don't need to increase your dosage you need to DECREASE.

    HORROR STORY: When we were newbies and our vet was learning this right along with us, we kept increasing Bunny's dose based on high preshots and vet visit readings. He was up to FIFTEEN UNITS OF N BID!!! Makes my stomach flip flop thinking about it now! Posted on this board that I was at my whit’s end because I could not get nice preshots. The posts I received back said, "That is WAY too much N! Start over and check your peak numbers!" He was going down to 26 at peak! YIKES! If not for the fact that Bunny free feeds, and can thus bring his numbers back up by eating, he would have died. ALWAYS FIND OUT WHEN YOUR PEAK IS AND CHECK THOSE NUMBERS BEFORE ANY INCREASE!

    When curving on N for the *first time*, in my opinion, it is good to check bg's at +2, +3, +4, +5 and again at +6. This will tell you exactly where your peak is. After the numbers start to rise, you can go back to every two hour checks. This is not the only way to do a curve; it is just my opinion on how to do your first with a new insulin, especially one as fast acting as N.

    Until you have a chance to curve, I do not recommend giving the shot at bg’s under 300 simply because you do not know yet how much of a drop you are going to get. I have sat up all night on hypo watch with several folks who were new and thus had not curved yet, only to find out their cat dropped 200 on a single unit…not good when preshots was 250.

    Hometesting Links:
    [www.gorbzilla.com]
    [groups.msn.com]

    3. SETTLE TIME/ONE CHANGE AT A TIME. Speaking of increases, just like any other insulin, allow at least two weeks between changes/increases for the change to settle/body to adjust. This includes food changes. If kitty is starting a low carb diet, do not increase insulin until the cat's body can adjust to the change. Too many changes too close together will leave you wondering which change you made gave you the result you wanted. The only exception to this rule is a decrease in dosage. If kitty is going too low (I don't like Bunny to be anywhere under 100 and I, personally, do not “shoot” under 250), definitely decrease your dose.

    4. LOOK AT THE WHOLE CAT. Many folks on this board have lovely regulation numbers that are consistently between 100-200. Some cats will not regulate that way. Bunny was mid 300's preshot (never any ketones) and low/mid 200's at peak when he was regulated. Any other change took him too low (lowest I could take him without a rebound was 180ish). He was flat on his hocks with neuropathy at dx. Once we regulated him, he started walking normal, decreased water intake and peeing and started to put some weight back on. The vet said that even though his numbers were higher than the ideal, it was obviously what worked for him. His annual FULL blood work ups, until the cancer, always showed normal.

    5. GET A FULL BLOOD WORKUP AT LEAST ONCE PER YEAR. This is all insulin’s. Because diabetes affects so many other organs, it is very important to know the kidney, liver etc are functioning properly. This test lets you and your vet get a better picture of what is going on with kitty. It also helps catch other diseases when they may still be in their early stages and thus easier to treat.

    6. SYRUP. This is just too important! If kitty is catatonic, non-responsive or having seizures, IMMEDIATELY give karo syrup, maple syrup or honey. You can rub it on their gums or the inside of their cheek.

    Even if you are on your way to the ER, the sugar spike could save your cat's life or some of the organs that are damaged during such an episode. Do not worry about getting syrup everywhere, it will wash up later. Do not worry about taking kitty's bg's too high--high sugar @#$%& slow, low sugar @#$%& fast. If possible, have someone drive while you continue to apply the syrup on the way to the doctor. It could save your cat's life!

    High carb foods such as dry food or the semi-moists like Tender Vittles are good to keep on hand as well. Why? Because if kitty is conscious/with it enough to eat, then the this will help Keep the Bg’s up longer. Syrup is a temp fix and does not maintain the needed rise.

    7. SEMI-MOIST FOOD/TREATS. Tender Vittles and other semi-moist foods/treats, milk and carrots can also cause a major spike in the bg numbers, because they all contain SUGAR. I am not saying kitty can never have these again. Quality of life is very important. Bunny has always been allowed one or two a couple times a week. I am just saying to abstain from these treats until you achieve regulation.

    8. KNOW YOUR CAT. There may come a time when kitty does not want to eat what s/he is supposed to. It is important to know what foods you can give to entice eating, as it is crucial for the cat to eat while on insulin! Also, if you are curving and kitty’s numbers start dropping too low before and/or during peak, it is lifesaving to know what to give in order to start increasing numbers. Things that have worked for myself and others: vanilla ice cream, gravy, white bread, Catsip (the milk that is made for cats, not the stuff you put on hotdogs), donuts, popcorn, dry cat food or dry cat food with tuna water dumped on it, semi-moist cat treats. You will want to know beforehand what high carb foods your cat loves, and will readily eat, so that should you find yourself in a situation where your kitty's numbers are going too low, you already have a supply on hand, and won't waste precious moments experimenting with different foods.

    9. START LOW GO SLOW. If you start too high, you could “miss” your ideal dosage. Many people have found that ½ a unit BID or 1 unit BID ends up being the perfect dosage to keep kitty in the 100-300 range.

    10. BID (TWICE PER DAY) dosing: In all the years of being on and off the FD Boards (since 10/97) I have not come across a cat that got any more than 12 hours duration on N. It is NOT a single dose per day insulin by any stretch. Increasing dosage does not make the insulin last longer, it only makes the cat’s number see-saw more, dropping them lower which causes their glucose to go higher. If your vet wants SID (one dose per day) please explain this to him/her and if they refuse to listen, PLEASE INSIST that you do twice per day dosing.
    Even on slower acting insulins like L and U, MOST cats need insulin twice per day.

    11. EVEN AFTER YOU REACH REGULATION IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO PS TEST AND/OR DO PERIODIC CURVES. Insulin needs change. Throughout the six years I treated Bunny his insulin had to be adjusted. Just because 2 units BID worked for the past 6 months, you are treating a CAT, and cats change their minds all the time! His dosage varied from 7 to 5 units over the first 5 years because his body’s needs changed. Without periodic curves, I wouldn’t have known to adjust his dosage and could have easily hypo’d him.


    [www.gorbzilla.com]
    :O)
    Copyright © 2003-2007
    Kimber, Bunny (Grey Angel) & Annie (Guardian Angel)
    (with much appreciated contributions from Debra & Care Bear(GA); Hope, (((Patches)))GA, (((Baby)))GA, Hope & Mishka)

    PS…since the subject has been brought up several times on the FDMB…Humulin insulins in the United States are ALWAYS U-100, and therefore should be used with “U-100” needles.
     
  9. Hope + (((Baby)))GA

    Hope + (((Baby)))GA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Food has to be on board with N insulin.....

    Lisa, it mentions it in the N Primer. You should feed Quincy at least 1/2 hr. to 1 hr before shooting insulin. Also, we test before feeding to get an idea of the bg number so it is not influenced by food. That is a high starting dose and his numbers at the vet may have been jacked up from stress. So glad you are hometesting.
     
  10. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Thank you very much, our cat is doing very well now. This board has helped a lot. We're taking him to the vet for a check up on Thursday.

    Its just hard to check his sugars now, because we dont get enough blood and we dont want to be picking him as much.

    But really thank you so much everyone. Im very grateful.
     
  11. Karen & Pearl

    Karen & Pearl Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    What meter are you using? I find that the Relion Micro takes a TEEEENY amount of blood. Also, if you warm up the ear, it will bleed better.
     
  12. ceil99

    ceil99 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    WOW

    You are giving 10u a day!!!! That is way, way too much. How long has he been on insulin? How often did his dosages get changed? I am guessing he is on dry food? If he is, that is probably why you are not in trouble. :eek:




    Welcome to our FDMB family and be patient with yourself. You sound like you really love your cats, so you have come to the perfect place. Get some chocolate, sit back and get ready to read. Also, remember Every Cat Is Different. (ECID) Also, remember opinions may vary sometimes on this board, so you may get different views. Unfortunately, that is human nature.
    Sorry this is very long, but there is a lot to say! Also, remember we were ALL newbies once and are feeling just like you are right now! :) OK……..breathe………. :RAHCAT

    You do not need any type of prescription food or “special” diabetic food. Use Janet & Binky’s chart for canned food at http://binkyspage.tripod.com/canfood.html. . Low carb is best for diabetics. I try to stay around 10% or under. I feed Whiskas, 9-Lives and mostly Friskies canned food. Diabetes is very treatable and does not cost as much as you would think. If you are giving a high dose of insulin and feeding dry, be careful with switching to canned food. You MUST reduce the insulin at the same time you switch to canned food.

    Please create a profile if you have not already done so (viewtopic.php?f=6&t=531). It will help us to help you. We need to know what kind of insulin you are on, what needles you are using (U-40 or U-100), what are you feeding, how much insulin you are giving and when, BG test results, etc. There are many people on this board from all over the world, so it will be helpful to know what area and time zone you are in. :coffee:

    Remember that your cat is YOUR cat, and YOU are paying your VET to help you take care of him; diabetes was probably a day or two worth of notes when the vet was in college; it is probably NOT a day-to-day existence with his own cat trying to maintain a quality of life. Sorry to say, but I would have overdosed my guys on insulin if I followed my vet's advice. Vets, unfortunately are not as knowledgeable as they should be on diabetes.

    Sometimes, as I did, you have to take a leap of faith and trust these people on this board who deal with diabetes day in and day out. Trust me. You will not be disappointed. OK………..breathe again……….get some chocolate…….. cat_pet_icon

    Also, please realize that it takes insulin about a week to settle. START LOW AND GO SLOW!! The usual starting dose from our experiences is 1u twice a day for at least a week. Insulin in cats is NOT and I repeat NOT based on weight. This is a misconception that a lot of us have gotten from our vets here. pc_work

    You have to be patient, as I also had to learn!! Do not adjust the dose upwards based on one test. Don’t freak out based on one test result. As long as the levels stay on the high side, keep the same dose twice a day for at least the initial week period and you should see improvements. When you have some time (hee hee), read my profile doc at http://docs.google.com/View?id=dfqss8sg_1cpgwhbd9 .


    If you are not hometesting already, you really need to start!! Hometesting is VERY important. Most of us here use any human meter. Think of it as a human diabetic does. *If it were you or a child of yours, you'd be testing blood glucose levels at home prior to each shot; you'd be working with your doctor to determine a proper dose based on those shot results, correct?* Some vets do not agree with hometesting and I cannot for the life of me understand why. Most vets, sadly are not knowledgeable enough in feline diabetes. Insulin is a VERY powerful drug and you NEED to hometest before giving a shot. This is very important. The vet would rather have you bring the cat to them, stress it out more, which may spike the levels anyway and then they can charge you $$. Hometesting saved me a lot of money and it is VERY important for you personally to know the cat’s levels and how it is reacting to the insulin before you shoot so you do not pass up your ideal dosage.

    Thanks to everyone's help here I learned to home test 2 cats and they both got off insulin within 3 weeks with diet change…but of course, they reacting both DIFFERENTLY with the process. If I can do it with 2 cats twice a day (and more on curve days), ANYONE can do it. It does NOT hurt them as much as you think it does. It just stings for a moment and then it is gone, you can try it on yourself. Also, put pressure on the ear after poking and it should minimize the nub. They won't mind it once they start feeling better. I use the True Track meter (CVS or Walgreens brand) which I love. And, the strips are also reasonable. Also, remember to give them a treat after the test. Here is a link to a member videos on hometesting:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zE12-4fVn8
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZ6iXetR398

    I would not feed DRY food if at all possible. Of course, it is better than nothing – you MUST get them to eat if you are giving insulin, but if there is any chance, get them off the dry. I took my guys off dry and within a month they were off insulin. Again, remember that switching from dry to wet can cause a drop in blood sugars, so you MUST reduce insulin at the same time to make sure you are not giving too much insulin. I truly believe also that I saved some of my many others from developing diabetes. I also saved so, so much money changing them all to regular canned cat food.
    When Blackie and Jackie got diagnosed, I was afraid to start shots. The people on this board made me realize it was no big deal. (They went on PZI insulin around 3-25-06 and went off on 4-18-06! :) Please also realize that diet plays a BIG, BIG part in insulin needs. I switched my cats off dry food to all wet and I was never so happy. It was a challenge to try to regulate 2 cats at once.


    Welcome to the Sugar Dance. flip_cat
    Welcome to the Vampire Club.

    If I can do it, ANYONE can!!!
    It does get easier. Trust us.

    You need to test BEFORE you shoot. It usually goes: Test, Feed, Shoot



    There's a saying something like "better the sugar level is too high for a day than too low for a minute".
     
  13. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Sorry for not posting sooner. I will look in to all of this and again thank you so much for all the information. This is really helping us. :). Let me get to doing all this first.
     
  14. ceil99

    ceil99 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    How are things going?

    PLEASE post and let us know what is going on with this high dose?
     
  15. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Oh my goodness! So many apologies, my computer completely messed up and I had to get a new one. :YMSIGH:

    Anyway! It was 5 units of lantis a day. Not ten, and we don't feed him the pricey dry food. He is now eating the canned food. His sugars are very normal, and he has been doing so much better. Again thank you so much everyone. I will create a profile for him anyway :). His sugars are now down to the 100's. 100-145 at highest. He is more active and the weight he has lost is coming back, but not so bad. When he started out he weighed 9 and went down to 6 pounds, now hes back to his normal weight. His eyes are not watery anymore. Im just so happy he is active!
     
  16. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010


    We're using the one touch ultra mini monitor.
     
  17. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    The entire thing you posted was very helpful and we do in fact test, feed and give him insulin. :D
     
  18. ceil99

    ceil99 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2009
    "Novolin-N is what we're giving him. 5-units in the am and 5 units in the pm."

    Was this a typo?

    Are you still giving insulin now or have you stopped since changing to wet food and his levels are lower?
     
  19. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    No, its just five units a day of Novolin-N. Im sorry.
     
  20. Jen & Squeak

    Jen & Squeak Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Ok, so is that 5 units of humulin N once a day? No insulin is a once a day insulin, with very rare exceptions.
     
  21. Hope + (((Baby)))GA

    Hope + (((Baby)))GA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    N is a short acting insulin and no way will you get duration giving it once a day. Also a lot of juice in one shot. Will see better results by splitting the dose and giving only 2 units twice a day for starters. Even on the much longer duration insulins cats need twice a day shots.
     
  22. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    We will try that then. Thank you. The vet had told us the first time to give him 10. 5 in the AM and 5 in the PM. But I will try the 2 units twice a day. Christ they changed it to lantus now. I don't know what to do. Am I doing the right thing???? I really need help. Please just help me. This is so confusing. We wont give him the ten or the five. We will try the 4 units a day. His sugars are normal around 130ish . Its a little high but it wasn't in the 500's when he was at the vet. He is more active and his eyes arent jelly like anymore.
     
  23. Hope + (((Baby)))GA

    Hope + (((Baby)))GA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    OMG, if your vet truly meant you to start on N at 10.5 units a.m. and 5 units p.m., that alone could have killed Quincy. Please start a new thread by going to New Topic and ask for help with Lantus insulin. I've never used it but have to say I am certainly glad you are hometesting.
     
  24. quincycat

    quincycat New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Thank god we never gave him 10 then! Thank you so much. I will...
     
  25. Jen & Squeak

    Jen & Squeak Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
    Ok, this is nuts.

    With insulin, please clarify, he's normally around 130? Is this before or after shots? Do you have a log book of test data?

    If you are changing to lantus, the MOST you should be starting with is 1 unit twice a day. The most.

    Please, as suggested, if you are moving to lantus you need to go to insulin support groups and click on lantus. Read the information posts there and then post for specific help.

    Jen
     
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