? When to skip a shot on Lantus - low blood sugar

Discussion in 'Lantus / Levemir / Biosimilars' started by MommyOfIsis, Jul 24, 2015.

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  1. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    My baby Isis was 137 when I checked her at the normal time tonight. As this was under 200, I waited 45 minutes and tested again. She had actually dropped, all the way down to 58.
    I gave her Nutri-Cal and some dry food and now she's up to 306, but I don't know if it's safe to give her insulin yet or if I should skip. She's usually in the higher range, but when I skip a dose it takes about a week to get her back down to safe numbers. I'm unsure of whether or not the 306 will 'stick' or drop, or even continue rising, so I don't know if it's safe to give her the 2 units of Lantus she's prescribed.
    I realize it's late (here, anyway) but if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it.

    Thank you.
     
  2. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    First question, if you shoot tonight, can you be on schedule 12 hours later tomorrow if you were to shoot tonight? I am worried with her history of DKA, it's not a good idea to skip insulin.

    By the way, 58 is no a dangerously low number. We don't normally give high carb food until kitty is under 50.
     
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  3. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    Do you have a spreadsheet of Isis's blood sugar values? Here are the instructions for the spreadsheet we use here. It could be that 2 units is too high a dose, but it's hard to say without seeing a spreadsheet.

    Next time you are waiting to see if her numbers rise, try waiting only half an hour. If you wait too long, sometimes numbers will drop due to lack of food. Try testing again now, is her number still rising?
     
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  4. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I will be able to shoot again in 12 hours if I need to. The problem is gradually getting back to our regular schedule. Our vet said you can do +/- 2 hours when it comes to adjusting the time, but I never do over 1. So, generally if I have to give her a late dose, for example tonight: her scheduled time is usually 10 pm. If I have to give it to her at midnight, then I would add eleven hours instead of the twelve we normally do, and give it to her at 11 am. Sorry, I'm exhausted, did that make sense?
    I was really scared when I saw 58, as it's the lowest she's been since her crisis last year - since I started tracking it.
     
  5. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Unfortunately, I haven't taken the time to figure out the spreadsheet stuff. I know it's basically a prerequisite, I just haven't done it yet. That's my bad and I know I need to learn how to do it all.

    She's still rising, at 341 right now.
     
  6. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    On here, we suggest you can move your shot time up 15 minutes a shot, or 1/2 hour once a day. Here is a post that describes getting back on schedule.
    The other "trick" that you can sometimes do if you get really off schedule is to do two cycle, 18 hours apart. That gets you back on schedule and can be less of an impact than a skip.

    How long after regular shot time is the 306 and the 341? She's probably OK to shoot. The number might be partly inflated by the Nutri-Cal and the dry food, but it's pretty high. If you are worried, you could always give her a lower dose like 1.5 units, just to get some insulin in her.

    By the way, she is probably bouncing in reaction to that 58. Her body is probably not used to normal numbers. The second post here is a description of bouncing.
     
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  7. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Thank you for your prompt response, by the way. I really appreciate it!

    The 58 was after she had eaten dinner. What we usually do is not the way the community generally recommends it to be done, it's the way the vet told us to do it and I'm sure it's not ideal but it's worked for us so far. We feed first, then test 30 minutes to 1 hour later, then administer based on the test.
    Our vet actually wanted us to increase her dosage to 3 units, and I refused at the time because I knew Isis' sugar is prone to be wonky and was worried it would send her into hypoglycemia.
    I do have a written record of her blood sugar for a period of time, so maybe I should try to input that into a spreadsheet.
    Also, I did go ahead and give her the 2 units, it was just 2 hours later than it should have been.

    Thanks again for your help. I know I'm not "off the hook" here. I still have a lot of work to do.
     
  8. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    If she was 58 a after she's eaten dinner, then it's likely the dose is too high. Here we test, then feed, then shoot. Otherwise the food, whether low or high carb, can influence the test number and you won't know if it's safe to give insulin. For example, if you feed and the food brings the cat up 20 points, and then you test at 58, that means the real value would be 38, which is too low to shoot and would have earned a reduction.

    A lot of vets don't have familiarity with Lantus to the extent that the people here do, that test frequently and get to see the spreadsheets of hundreds of cats. Good thing you didn't increase as the vet suggested.
     
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  9. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I'm working on my spreadsheet as we speak, and I'll try to attach it to my signature. She generally runs high, but can dip down as much as 200 points within 12 hours for no apparent reason.

    Do you have any suggestions for how to switch to your method from ours? My morning alarm is set for 8:30, at which point I get up, feed both cats, then take Isis and test her about 30 minutes to an hour after feeding. I'm not sure how to change that up, especially with a switch like we had tonight.
     
  10. Bron and Sheba (GA)

    Bron and Sheba (GA) Well-Known Member

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    I can see your SS so that is great. Well done!

    Can you get some tests during the day or/ and during the night at about +5 to +7. That means 5 to 7 hours after the insulin was last given. This is when the blood sugar is usually at the lowest level (the nadir).
    We do the adjustments of the insulin based on the nadir. Getting tests done at any hour is helpful and will give people an idea of how Isis is reacting to the insulin.

    Feeding first then waiting a hour before giving the insulin was the way it was done when the old type of insulins were being used because they were fast acting and strong and cats needed to have food aboard for when the insulin started to work.
    The newer insulins like Lantus is a much more gentle insulin and doesn't have its onset ( when it starts to work) for a couple of hours after it is given generally. So if you are using Lantus the practice is to test the blood sugar, feed the cat then give the insulin all in about 15 minutes. Also do not feed the cat for the two hours before the preshot test so that food has not influenced the blood sugar number.

    To work out when to give the insulin tomorrow morning, can you tell me when you last gave Isis her insulin, and was it the pm cycle. We all live in different time zones and so we talk about the am cycle and the pm cycle, and how long after the insulin is given becomes + something. For example if you gave the pm insulin at say 6 pm and you took a test at 9 pm that would be +3.

    I live in Australia so will be up for at least another 6 hours.
     
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  11. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I will definitely try to start testing near the nadir. I think it would be easiest to do that during the day time, so 5-7 hours after her AM shot.

    I gave Isis her insulin yesterday (Friday the 24th) in the AM at 9:00. Then last night I gave her a dose a few minutes after midnight my time, so almost 10 hours ago. That was the PM shot.

    I'm still learning how to use the spreadsheet, as it's a little bit confusing when I have to change the shot time to wait for her to be over 200, but I've added that in the remarks section so hopefully that helps.

    I really need to get better at the entire process of managing her diabetes.

    Another thing of note is that at the am and pm feedings she receives Hill's Prescription m/d, and the afternoon feeding (approximately 2:30 pm my time) she gets Fancy Feast. There are a few different reasons why we still have her on m/d: it's WAY cheaper, and we're actually stretched to the limit with all of our pet bills. It's approximately $40 for a bag that lasts more than 2 months, versus $1.50+ a day if we switched to one can of FF three times a day. This next point is debatable: with her on the dry food, I worry less about her sugar going too low. I know the goal is remission, but I don't know if I will ever be able to test her often enough to make sure she's not dropping too low on the wet food, in addition to modifying her dosage in accordance... it's a lot of work. I honestly don't know how you all do it, with jobs and the tight regulation and all.

    Also, we use the SoloStar pens because that's all I've ever used. I feel much more comfortable drawing from them and not having to inject air into them as you have to with a vial. I know vials are cheaper, but I'm worried that if I messed up a vial it's a lot more expensive than messing up one pen, and then I wouldn't have a backup. So that's a way we could save money but don't because it's "easier" this way.

    I know I'm far behind all of the community's standards, and I want to be and do better.
     
  12. Sienne and Gabby (GA)

    Sienne and Gabby (GA) Senior Member Moderator

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    The information that your vet is giving you is appropriate if you were using a shorter acting insulin than Lantus or Levemir. Because shorter acting insulin has it's onset very soon after you shoot, it's important to have food on board to offset the potential drop in numbers. Lantus onset is at roughly 2 hours after you shoot. Thus, you have the normal rise in numbers due to insulin wearing off from the previous shot coupled with food that causes a rise in numbers. This is why we test-feed-shoot all within a few minutes. In addition, Lantus dosing is based on the nadir.The pre-shot number is important in that it lets you know if it's safe to shoot. It's essential to know what the mid-cycle numbers are. Without that information, it's very hard to offer any insight into dosing or how to make suggestions that will keep your cat safe.

    In other words, your vet's information is not applicable to the insulin you're using.

     
  13. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    How can I approach that with my vet without making her feel like I don't care about her opinion and knowledge? If I end up having to adjust Isis' insulin dosage, how can we discuss that with our doctor without her insisting that they do a curve, too?

    Also, any advice on how to flip this around? I had to give her the dose so late last night, and now have to work back up to the normal time and then switch it so I'm testing first.

    (Also, I just tested her and she was at 228, +4.5. I'll test her again closer to +7.)
     
  14. BJM

    BJM Well-Known Member

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    Now that your spreadsheet is up, and you're testing at pre-shot and during the nadir period, you can lower your no shot limit to 150 mg/dL so long as the lowest mid-cycle tests are safely above 50 mg/dL.
    While the vial of 10 mL/1,000 units looks cheaper, you may be unable to use all of it before it wimps out. Each pen has 3 mL/300 units and most folks can finish using the entire pen before the insulin wimps out.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2015
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  15. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I feel like there might be some miscommunication, even within the community, about pricing, too. On the DCIN blog, she mentions a vial costing between $180-200. This last time, my pharmacy mistakenly thought I was purchasing a vial and rang me up for it first. It was $320. The SoloStar 5-pack was $372.
     
  16. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I'm still eagerly awaiting news of a generic. I thought the company was going to lose their 10-year patent sometime between 2014 and 2015.
     
  17. BJM

    BJM Well-Known Member

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    There was a lawsuit filed and FDA delayed the biosimilar. Look for it in 2016 (if we're lucky).
     
  18. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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  19. BJM

    BJM Well-Known Member

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    They'll probably get a patent infringement lawsuit, too.
    1500 units in a 5 pack of pens is $0.248 per unit
    1000 units in a vial is $0.32 per unit
     
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  20. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Thanks for the math! It's so much nicer to think of it as $1-2 per day than it is to see it as just this massive thing we have to buy regularly.

    I use the Relion syringes and every single time I get this tiny bubble in the top, so I end up having to waste a unit trying to squeeze it out.
     
  21. BJM

    BJM Well-Known Member

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    You're not shooting into a blood vessel, so a tiny bubble isn't going to be a problem.
     
  22. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I'm not worried about injecting her with it, just with getting the right amount of insulin in the syringe regardless of or in addition to the bubble.
     
  23. Bron and Sheba (GA)

    Bron and Sheba (GA) Well-Known Member

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    I never inject air into the vial before drawing out the insulin. I just draw out the amount needed. You will get fewer air bubbles this way.
    Another way to eliminate air bubbles from the syringe is to push the plunger back tightly into the syringe and keep doing it as you put the needle into the vial then release it. If I get a tiny bubble I ignore it and just make sure I have drawn up the correct amount.
    I find once I start fiddling about trying to get rid of a little bubble I waste insulin and it takes ages and then I am running late with the injection!
    I understand your concerns about costs completely......you just need to be aware that dry food is much higher in carbs than wet food, even the Hills M/D and it is much better for the cat's pancreas to be getting wet food. You may be able to get some larger cans of suitably low carb food which may not be as expensive as FF small cans.
     
  24. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    About the bubble, I don't inject air into the vial/pen and I always pre-plunge to make sure the syringe is lubricated. I also make sure I have the syringe fully depressed before attempting to draw out any insulin, but I always get those darn bubbles!

    About the food, we have successfully tried one other kind of wet cat food with Isis in the past: Authority. It was much less expensive, but it was also higher in fat (and possibly carbs, if I remember correctly). Isis tends to vomit if she eats too fast, or tries new food, or is hungry, or if a particular moon phase doesn't agree with her, lol. I don't like playing around with her diet too much because she has such a sensitive stomach. She also tends to gorge herself whenever possible.

    I will keep trying to think about and research different food options. We have so many expenses that it's hard to think about adding more food on top of that, but if it's better for her and necessary then so be it.
     
  25. Bron and Sheba (GA)

    Bron and Sheba (GA) Well-Known Member

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    http://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/food-links.133016/

    Here is a food link which may be useful. You might find some suitable foods to try. If you change over foods, do it slowly and if you do transition off the dry you need to be aware that the blood sugars can drop up to 100-200 because of the fewer carbs.
    I have a cat who bolts her food down if given the opportunity and vomits so I understand. I only feed her small amounts at a time...but I am home during the day and if you have to work it is much harder.

    It is hard to eliminate bubbles completely from the syringe....I just ignore them unless they are big.
     
  26. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Thank you for the link. I found somewhere, I think on here, a list with a breakdown of carbs, protein, etc for many different Fancy Feast flavors and other brands. I used that when picking out appropriate Fancy Feast flavors for her. I've found that her breath has gotten much worse on the wet food though. I know that some people add chlorophyll to their pets' drinking water, in part to combat bad breath, and that it is supposed to be safe for all of their organs, etc, but haven't heard whether or not it's safe for diabetic cats. I know it's not diabetes-related bad breath... it smells like nasty wet food! Everytime she comes in close for a kiss, or even starts grooming herself while sitting next to me, I get really grossed out by her breath. I don't know of any breath-related treats for cats that are okay with a carb-restricted diet. We have given her the little Greenies before and she likes them, but I never noticed it helping, we just used them as treats.
     
  27. Bron and Sheba (GA)

    Bron and Sheba (GA) Well-Known Member

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    Can't help with the chlorophyll ...I have no idea.
    I find Sheba's breath is bad when she eats fishy things. Especially fish oil. Ugh! Otherwise normal cat breath.
    Are Isis's teeth OK?

    I have read, and I can't remember who wrote it, but they had many cats, something like 15, and they fed them canned food, large cans which were economical. I will try and remember. Otherwise you could write in your subject line 'ideas suitable cheaper US canned food'.
    We normally start a new condo each day here in L and L land.
     
  28. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    We swapped the fish for poultry at least a month ago. Still stinky. Her teeth are pretty good; she gets annual teeth cleanings and examinations.
    Shadow, our non-diabetic cat, usually eats a very similar diet to her and his breath is nowhere near as 'wicked'. He cleans himself a *lot* more than Isis does, though, so I wonder if by cleaning himself he's scraping off some of that nasty scent.
     
  29. Chris & China (GA)

    Chris & China (GA) Well-Known Member

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    Friskies Pate's are even cheaper than Fancy Feast and are fine for our sugarcats. They also come in large cans (12 or 13oz) as well as 5.5oz cans

    Have you ever tried spreading her food out on a flat plate instead of in a bowl? It makes them eat slower instead of being able to bolt down their food. There are also special feeders you can buy (or just put something big and not edible like a golf ball in their bowl that they have to eat around)
     
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  30. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Her current bowl is pretty large and flat, so we could try spreading out her food more in there.
    We had to get a special bowl for one of our dogs once. He almost gave himself bloat on several occasions. I don't imagine that working with wet food but it would with dry. Currently with dry food I push it all around her bowl so she has to hunt for food pieces. And that's another idea: they make interactive cat feeding toys where the cat has to solve puzzles to find a piece of food. Again, that would only work with dry food, though.
    Thanks for the advice!
     
  31. Chris & China (GA)

    Chris & China (GA) Well-Known Member

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    The special bowls will help with wet food too...anything that makes them slow down when they're eating instead of being able to just gulp it down will help prevent "scarf and barfs"
     
  32. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Ah okay, I guess you would have to spread it around then? The bowl we had for our dog had built in bumps, so if we were to put wet cat food in it we would probably have to take out pieces and lay them out around the bumps. With the flavors she's on right now, she's fine eating it straight from the can plopped into her bowl. Some flavors make her more prone to vomiting than others.
     
  33. Chris & China (GA)

    Chris & China (GA) Well-Known Member

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    Try to keep track of what you've fed her when she throws up...she may be allergic to a certain protein source. If you look at the bowl I put in the link in my first comment, there's only one main "bump" right in the middle...they can't fit their whole face into the bowl so it slows them down
     
  34. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Oops! I didn't even see that link, it blended into the rest of the text to my eyes. Thank you. :)
     
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  35. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    This is the link to the document that lists the protein, fat, carbs for many of the commercial cat foods. Many of the Fancy Feast foods have fish as an ingredient - that could be what you are smelling. If you buy taller cans (such as Wellness or Friskies), you can get better value than buying smaller cans.

    When you said above that you use the Solestar Pens, are you using the pen needles or syringes to give the insulin? Cats are sensitive to very small changes in insulin. We go up and down by .25U increments, and you can only do that with syringes with 1/2 unit markings. Check out the Sticky on Lantus/Levemir Info, Handling, and Storage for more info.
     
  36. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I use syringes to draw from the SoloStar pens and the Relion syringes I use have 1/2 unit markings on them.
    That sticky has been such a lifesaver for me! I tried to get my vet to read it before I trusted Isis and her insulin to them. The vet at that time was very inept when it comes to computers, and accused the website of attempting to hack her computer and filling it with viruses. She also oversaw my pen being ruined by the tech injecting air into it. I'm glad she's not my vet anymore.
     
  37. Shiloh & Rhonda (GA)

    Shiloh & Rhonda (GA) Well-Known Member

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    Just to add to what others have said. The Friskies pates are cheaper than FF and larger. 5.5 versus 3 ounces. The Friskies also come in 13 ounce cans, which is equivalent to more than 4 cans of FF. The large cans are $1.08 at Walmart.
     
  38. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Oh, that's a really good price. Is there an easier way than eyeballing it to measure out 4 servings?
     
  39. Shiloh & Rhonda (GA)

    Shiloh & Rhonda (GA) Well-Known Member

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    You could put the whole can (whole, still the can shape) on a plate, then cut it in fourths and store the other three in containers in the fridge. Just take it out about 20 minutes before feeding to let it get to room temperature.
     
  40. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    That's a great idea, thanks!
     
  41. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    I bought a few of the large Friskies cans and cut one up into fourths (which was, again, a great idea). Isis ate the first portion - at room temperature - eagerly, but now that the next portions are cold she's just nibbling and then abandoning. I have to find a way to heat them up without making a mess. I looked it up and apparently heating by using a source of hot water is the best method (better than microwaving) - I just have to figure out how to do that with the containers I have.
     
  42. Wendy&Neko

    Wendy&Neko Senior Member Moderator

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    I just add warm/hot water to the food itself, making it like there is a gravy. Adding extra water for a diabetic is a good thing anyway. If you want to warm the food itself without adding water, just pop it in a ziploc bag and immerse in warm water.
     
  43. BJM

    BJM Well-Known Member

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    A digital scale which lets you take out the weight of the plate (aka zeros out the weight of the plate) works well too.
     
  44. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    Okay, thanks!
     
  45. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

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    An update: today I had to try a few things and neither was very successful.
    First, I took the pate slice out of the fridge and tried to heat it while in it's sealed container, by placing it in hot water for awhile. It seemed to work, but Isis wouldn't touch it.
    Then I added some bits of tuna and the tuna water to the mix. She was very interested in that but mostly just fished out the pieces she could find.
    Then I added warm water to the food itself. She licked a bit of the liquid up but that was it, so then I added some kibble, which she proceeded to seek out, eating a lot of the liquid and the wet food in the process.
    With coaxing she continued to lick up the food-water, and finally began to eat some of the wet food. This process took over 30 minutes.
    With a lot of the wet food still left, she vomited ALL of it back up.
    I was about to call it good and leave it at that, hoping she had gotten enough to count.
    Now I'm frustrated and confused.
    She's addicted to carbs, this much I know. She doesn't like her food cold, and I can't heat it sufficiently to get her interested in it. I've only tried the Friskies poultry mix pate so far, so perhaps she'd like the tuna variety more (but I know feeding fish consistently is bad because of the phosphorus and mercury).
    The good: she seemed to like the Friskies the first time, the one fresh out of the can.
    The bad: we're still trying to transition Isis to a wet-only diet, and this is one more hitch in the plans. I don't know how to save money by using the large Friskies cans, while still finding a way to get her to eat it after it's been refrigerated. I'm approximately 98% certain that we can't afford to feed her Fancy Feast three times a day. I'm also fairly positive that she's going to fight me every step of the way in trying to get her to eat wet food.
    For today, I don't know if her sugar will drop without that midday meal. I tested her shortly after she threw up, and she was at 325. I don't know if that's a false high, because I think her blood glucose rises after throwing up, but I feel like I don't know up from down anymore.

    I'm so overwhelmed by everything.
    We were recently able to "trap" (re: pick up and carry inside) a stray/feral cat who had been coming around, begging for food, and loving on us. (We've been feeding and watering the outdoor cats for a few months.) We've kept him in a three-tiered cat cage in a spare room to keep him separated from the other two cats and our dog. I had to take him to the vet to test him for FIV and FeLV, vaccinate him, and get him flea and tick medicine, so that was an extra $100+ expenditure we weren't planning for. We have all three other pets on Banfield Wellness Plans. We're not sure if they save us money or not, but the amount of times we take them there seems to indicate so. We spend almost $100 a month for all three of them, just on that. We feed each one a special diet that costs a lot. Shadow, our other cat, has been limping really badly and when we took him to the specialist they said if we wanted to be aggressive about it, we could do a bone biopsy, but that doing so wouldn't help him and would make him a lot worse for awhile and we would have to keep him virtually immobilized while he recovers. The biopsy is another $800+ if we decide to do it. We want to try steroid injections instead, but haven't found a vet to do it yet. We have no idea how much that will end up costing.

    I had made a crowdfunding account to try to recoup some of the costs of Isis' initial diagnosis and emergency vet stay - approximately $3000, but have only received two donations, totalling >$50, after over a year. We still pay over $125 a month to pay back our Care Credit account.

    There's only one place I know of that offers assistance for someone in my situation, and my interactions with that organization have been horrendous. I was essentially told that because Isis needed emergency care, I had "screwed myself" by not following their protocol for the cheapest care possible. She was on an IV drip and under 24 hour care, while almost dying from both hepatic lipidosis and diabetic ketoacidosis. We had to save her, and this was the only way. I felt like I was being penalized for saving her life, and was utterly flabbergasted by the treatment I received from this person.

    I just don't know what to do.
    Sorry to be a downer, I'm just... ugh.
     
  46. Sienne and Gabby (GA)

    Sienne and Gabby (GA) Senior Member Moderator

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    Dec 28, 2009
    Had you tried taking the food out of the refrigerator a couple of hours before meal time? I think I mentioned earlier that there are lower carb options for dry food. Young Again Zero Carb will send you a trial size bag to see if your kitty like it. EVO cat and kitten food is also around 7% carb, if I'm remembering correctly.

    This is some info on where to get financial help. It may not all be applicable.

    This list was current as of March 2015.
    American Veterinary Charitable Fund makes grants to veterinarians providing direct charitable care to clients' animals. Ask your vet to apply on your behalf.
    Banfield Charitable Trust HOPE Fund provides money for life-threatening emergencies. Recipients must be Banfield clients. The Trust offers other kinds of financial assistance for Banfield clients, too.
    Big Hearts Fund helps cats with heart disease. However, the charity is reorganizing to better manage its huge caseload, and as of March 2015 was accepting applications for surgical cases only.
    Care Credit is a low-interest credit card that can be used for veterinary care. You might get a higher credit limit if you apply through your vet.
    Dylan's Hearts helps low income families whose animals have a life-threatening illness or critical injury. Your veterinarian must apply on your behalf.
    Kobi's Fund For VAS Cats assists people whose cats have vaccination site sarcomas. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to see whether you might be eligible and find the application.
    Red Rover provides small grants to people who can demonstrate financial need and whose animals are in need of urgent and specific medical care.
    The Dog and Cat Cancer Fund
    helps income eligible people whose animal companions have a good prognosis.
    The Murphy and Sugar Foundation helps with veterinary office visits, testing/diagnostics and medications as needed for income-eligible people who would otherwise not be able to care for their critically ill companion animals.
    The Onyx and Breezy Foundation
    can help with medical hardship.
    Paws 4 A Cure helps with all kinds of veterinary expenses except spay/neuter, vaccinations and other routine care.
    Pet Assistance provides interest free loans and grants to people in financial need. To qualify, your cat must have a good prognosis.
    The Pet Fund pays for treatments that are above and beyond normal care. Because of long wait times the organization can't fund emergencies. Payments are made to veterinarians who must be approved by the program.
    Rose's Fund For Animals helps animals with life-threatening conditions who need immediate care and have a good prognosis. Your veterinarian will have to contact the Fund for you.
    Shakespeare Animal Fund helps older adults, people who are disabled and those whose income does not exceed current poverty guidelines pay for emergency veterinary care.



     
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  47. julie & punkin (ga)

    julie & punkin (ga) Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2011
    I have one that doesn't like cold food, so I always mix hers with some room temperature food, and add some warm water as well. So maybe if you do both large and small cans, keeping the large can in the fridge and adding some of it to some of a room temp can.

    Sounds like she might need smaller portions at a time.

    Hang in there...everything about this us overwhelming in the beginning, but truly, everything gets easier as you learn more, understand more, and as Isis accepts this as her new normal.

    I can't pay your bills but I can send you some virtual support! :bighug:
     
    MommyOfIsis likes this.
  48. MommyOfIsis

    MommyOfIsis Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2014
    Thank you both. Every little bit, whether it be encouragement and understanding, or advice and links, helps a lot, so thank you.
     
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