Differencein BG numbers with Alphatrak vs Relion glucometers??

Hi all!
I posted a few weeks ago about adopting a diabetic cat and she has finally arrived! Her previous foster is insistent that the alphatrak is the best glucometer to use because human glucometers aren’t reliable, but I’ve seen all over here that the relion glucometer is just fine. The shelter is currently lending me their alphatrak until I could purchase my own glucometer, and I just got the relion in the mail yesterday. I wanted to compare the two using the same blood sample and had a difference of 60 mg/dl between the alphatrak and relion, with relion being the lower. Is this normal? I used my own blood because Setsuki hates being poked, but I feel like that shouldn’t make much of a difference? I’d like to avoid the alphatrak if possible since the strips are so expensive, but I am worried that the difference could be an issue? Does anyone have any advice?

Thank you!
Mayci

 

Hi. So Sweet Kitty have taken up her royal abode with you ❤️

As for the human Relion bg meter, you learn and follow these human bg meter intervalls and numbers neatly shown in the columns at this page
https://felinediabetes.com/bg-convert.htm

However, the pet meters don't compare with these human bg meters numbers.


For pet meters I only now when it shows so low as 70, then you risk a hypo.

 

Setsuki's in her forever home! This is great news, Mayci, and that's a smashing pic of the two of you.

Please pay no mind to the link to the conversions above. It's for converting numbers between US and international measurement units and has nothing whatsoever to do with the differences in readings between human and pet meters. (There is no direct conversion possible between the two meter types.)

It's fine to use a Relion meter to monitor Setsuki's BG levels. You just need to apply an appropriate reference range to interpret her readings correctly:

* For feline BG measured on human meters, FDMB uses the range 50-120mg/dL.

* For pet meters, FDMB uses 68 as the lower bound of the range, where one intervenes with food/honey/syrup to bring numbers back up. FDMB does not have a defined upper bound for the range. If you check with your vet they should be able to advise you on an appropriate reference range for the interpretation of Alphatrak readings.

Essentially, you just choose the meter you want and then interpret the numbers using the applicable reference range. There isn't a way to convert readings from one meter type to an equivalent for the other meter type.


Mogs
.

 

This is really helpful, thank you!! I was really worried about having to commit to the AT2 because those glucose strips are so dang expensive! I'm still having a hard time consistently getting her blood glucose measured though--I can never seem to get enough blood the first or second time, on her ear or paw pad, and she hates hates hates getting poked. I have to swaddle her to keep her still I'm just hoping it gets easier over time, because I feel like I'm not doing a very good job monitoring her like she needs! Luckily I'm home with her while she adjusts these first two weeks so I can monitor her behavior, but I obviously can't do that if I'm out of the house.

Thank you! Her favorite place seems to be my lap <3

 

Try warming the ear more and for longer. And keep reminding her just how gorgeous and good she is while you're doing it. I've yet to meet a cat who doesn't like bucketloads of praise. And try singing. It can help keep both cat and bean more relaxed about the whole business.

Here are the links to the FDMB testing resources:

Home testing links and tips

Testing and injection tips

More in a minute...


Mogs
.

 

Here is the testing method I used. Perhaps it might give you some ideas to add to your own testing technique.

1. For most meters you can insert a test strip part way without switching it on. Once you've done the poke you can then push the strip the rest of the way into the meter to activate it. (Reduces the likelihood that the meter will time out before you can get the blood sample onto the strip.)
   
   
2. Fold a sheet of kitchen paper in four lengthwise and cut it up into 1" strips. You will use these to cushion and support the ear during the test.
   
   
3. Apply a thin film of Vaseline onto the edge of the ear to help the blood sample bead up instead of wicking into the fur. (Wipe off any excess.)
   
   
4. To get a blood sample you need to increase the blood flow to the ear, so make sure the ear is really, really, really warm (but not hot) - especially in the early days of testing. (Note: With repeated 'poking', more capillaries form in the test area, so it becomes easier to get samples reliably.)
   
   
5. Once you have the testing area of the ear well warmed, wrap a strip of folded kitchen paper round your index finger then place finger under the sweet spot area of the ear you're testing to support it during the poke.
   
   
6. Use your thumb and middle finger to lightly but firmly grip the ear and paper strip in place so that the edge of the ear is taut but not overstretched; the little bit of tension will make it easier for the lancet to break the skin surface (and it helps to keep kitty's head from moving around too much).
   
   
7. When using a lancet 'freehand', make sure the bevelled side of the lancet is facing upwards. Hold the lancet at a slight angle to the ear similar to the way you hold a pen when writing, not perpendicular (easier to see where you're aiming and also makes skin prick easier).
   
   
8. When it comes to the actual poke, prick the sweet spot on the edge of the ear in a similar way to how you might quickly prick a balloon with the tip of a needle to make it pop. If you aim as close to the edge of the ear as possible you are less likely to hit the marginal ear vein.
   
   
9. Keep hold of the ear while you're pushing the test strip into the meter to activate it. (Kitties are prone to shake their heads after a poke, sending your precious blood sample flying across the room. Holding the ear reduces likelihood of this happening.)
   
   Note: As you become more practised in testing, you'll be able to activate the meter just before doing the poke and still have plenty of time to collect the sample on the strip before it times out.
   
   
10. When using the glucometer, bring the test strip to where it j-u-s-t comes into contact with the blood droplet and hold it there. The strip should then 'sip up' the amount it needs to run a valid test. Most meters beep or give a visual cue to let you know that enough blood has been collected on the strip.
    
    If your cat is a wriggler, try collecting the blood sample on the back of your (clean) fingernail and test it from there.
    
    If a test fails and you still have a lot of blood on the strip from the failed test, don't throw it away. Instead, you could pop another strip into the meter and test using the blood on the strip from the first test. (Saves an additional poke so also helpful for wriggly kitties!)
    
    
11. After the test, fold the paper strip over the edge of the ear and apply gentle pressure to the test area for about 20-30 seconds to minimise bruising.
    
    
12. Keep giving lots of praise throughout the process and reward with a favourite diabetic-friendly treat or favourite activity (e.g. brushing).

With a bit of time and practice you'll be able to work out a technique and a routine that works best for you and Setsuki.







See member Farmkitty's excellent pictorial tutorial for visuals of some of the techniques described above:

https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/hello-food-and-insulin-questions.240117/#post-2709047

In particular, have a look at the pictures of the backlit ear before and after adequate warming. The difference in blood flow is really striking!


Mogs
.

 

This is an excellent behaviour training tutorial. The techniques demonstrated can also be applied for home testing:






Mogs
.

 

Thank you! This is all incredibly helpful. I really do want to make this as painless and stress free as possible for her, but for now I'm stuck swaddling her (just tried to get her to let me do it without, and I got poked twice instead . I'm hoping over time she gets more used to me doing it, I'm just worried that since she's been having this done since August and she's this resistant that she may already be stuck in this behavior. Fingers are crossed!

 

Hey @Mayci & Setsuki!

So awesome of you to take in this little baby. She def needs someone like you with the commitment to her health. This forum totally have saved me and Bruce the last few months.

I am curious about the relion as well. I’ve been usaing alpha trak, but with the amount of testing needed to be safe, the price doesn’t really check out. Especially with all of the other costs going up for healthier wet food diets and medication.

A couple of tips I got here that made a HUGE difference for me and Bruce was

1. Rice in a sock. Making sure to heat that for like 15 -20 seconds and warm his ear for like a minute. He likes this part and purrs usually.
   
2. A tiny bit of Vaseline on the ear they prefer. Eventually they tell you the ear they would rather you mess with. For him he likes his right ear and I can get more blood with only one prick.
   
3. Using a cotton ball or tissue on the other side of the lancet. This helps to not cause bruising and I think it doesn’t hurt as much when I do this.
   
4. This one may vary based on the cat- but I go to him or let him just sit in front of me. At first this was hard but when I swaddled him or tried to pin him down he was SO stressed and that will impact your results. So if I do a treat before and speak to him while I sit on the floor w him and pet him before or after, he is much more accepting. This took some time to get right, but now he just lets me and he gets rewarded w another treat at the end.

It can be pretty overwhelming and every cat is different but now I feel much more confident that I’m not hurting him and in my dosages. I also feel like it’s bonding is a little. He is learning to trust this process more.

- Just another fact I recently learned that might help is when I give him his shot, I just “tent” the skin - like kinda grab some of the skin together and inject there and he doesn’t even notice. I wasn’t aware of that option before and I was just kinda jabbing the poor guy and he def didn’t like that.

good luck

 

Yes! Suki hates hates hates being pinned down but she has a few places that she loves to sit in my lap usually. If I can, I try to take advantage of when she's really snuggled in, but she's also a grudge holder and has a good memory so it's been quite the balance . She's an incredibly communicative (and vocal!) cat though, so I've actually started to pick up on when she's already low or high so I can cut down on the poking, which has also helped our relationship!

She's still pretty stubborn about this part--she tries to find ways to get the treat without having to be around me long enough to get pricked. I ran her BG curve the other day and it was like a game of tag all day. I think it will help as we get to know each other more though. I've only had her for a month and a half, and she was a stray for several years, so we still have some work to do!

 

I used to kneel down and sit on my heels and put Sheba between my knees facing the same way as me. That way I Nader controlled bit not held. I put all the testing equipment on the floor beside me ready to go, then gave her a fine low carb snack as I tested her. While she was eating I tested her and she didn’t notice. I later found I could test her anywhere and she just sat there and let me do it.
You will both get used to it. Try and make it an enjoyable event if possible.

Thankyou so much for adopting an FD kitty. You are very special and she is one lucky girl