Hello!

Discussion in 'Feline Health - (Welcome & Main Forum)' started by RionKatt, Jan 16, 2016.

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  1. RionKatt

    RionKatt New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2016
    In early December 2015, I adopted the cat who had been frequenting my porch. The timing couldn't have been better; it started snowing the next day.

    Since then, his many vet visits have found that he has FIV, possible FIP and diabetes with glucose levels in the high 400s. He's on insulin right now. About 3 units twice a day.

    Oscar's 13 years old and I want to make his remaining years as great as I can.
     
  2. Jen Dan and Nightrider

    Jen Dan and Nightrider Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2016
    What a lucky guy!! You're wonderful to take in this soul in need!! He is one handsome fella
     
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  3. Critter Mom

    Critter Mom Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2014
    And I'd like to hug you for wanting to do so! I'm glad you found each other. :bighug:

    Welcome to you both.


    Mogs
    .
     
  4. Jeanne & Dottie

    Jeanne & Dottie Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Welcome, welcome! :bighug: We're so glad you brought Oscar inside. He's seen more than his share of troubles, but now he's safe. Smart kitty, ;)to park himself on your doorstep.

    Here's to a long and happy relationship: a warm bed, enough food, and lots of scritches for your veteran. The folks here will get you on the right track!
     
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  5. Merlin

    Merlin Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2014
    Welcome and I too would like to hug you and your new kitty as well. That is such a wonderful story. So glad you found this place. If you have any questions, please just holler at any time. A good thing to start off is reading this 18 page document written by a vet: www.catinfo.org

    At first, all this information is overwhelming, but you will soon find out that it is manageable. Below is some additional information for you. We can assist with you finding the right wet, low carb food and all the diabetes supplies at a reasonable price. Again, just holler if you have any questions.

    Home Testing: Here, we all home test and congratulations to you for wanting to home test too. It is mandatory to understand how your kitty is reacting to the insulin and the dose. You will want to test before each shot and some additional test in between the 12 hour cycle when you can. The main reason to home test is to keep your kitty safe and to find an effective dose. Find a place in your home where you will always perform the test and give lots of hugs and treats before and after testing. There are many videos showing you how to test. Hometesting Links and TipsHere is a picture of where you test on your kitty. http://s106.photobucket.com/user/chupie_2006/media/testingear/sweetspot.jpg.html

    Here is another good link on Home Testing:http://www.felinediabetes.com/bg-home-test.htm

    Meters: There are many different meters. There is a pet meter called the Alpha Trak2 and human meters. Some use the pet meter because it is what the vets use so the numbers will match up. The meter and strips are expensive though. Most folks buy AT strips from ADW. Most use human meters that can be purchased at any pharmacy. It typically reads a little lower than the pet meter but we have ways of compensating for those lower numbers. Many use Walmart's brand, Relion Micro, Relion Prime or Relion Confirm. The Micro and Confirm only needs a tiny drop of blood but the strips are a little more expensive than the Prime which needs a little bigger drop of blood. They cost around $15 and the strips are around 35 cents each. The AT strips are usually around $1 each at the vet’s office.

    Lancets: Lancets are used to poke the ear to get blood for the meters. There are many different sizes lancets (gauges). It is recommended when you are first starting out to use a 26-28 gauge because it is a larger size and will make a bigger hole, hence easier to draw blood. Also, it would be a good idea to pick up Neosporin WITH pain reliever to apply on the edge of the ears and don't forget to alternate ears. It is a bit scary at first to start poking the ear, but eventually it will become easier for both you and your kitty. Some people even draw blood from the paw pad.

    Spreadsheets: Our spreadsheet instructions are here. If you look at the signatures of the members here, you will see a link to their kitty’s spreadsheets. We keep track of all our tests. This is basically a place to collect data and help you to determine patterns, doses, etc. It also aids those that may be helping you to better understand your kitty. To further my knowledge on diabetes, I would make it a habit to read other kitty’s postings and spreadsheets. Even though they are all different and will be different than your kitty, it was still invaluable information.

    Food: There are many reasons why we are here but one is due to feeding dry cat food which is high in carbs. You will want to consider changing your food to wet, low carb food. It is recommended to feed food that is under 10% carbs and I found with Merlin that right around 4-5% worked for him. Here is a list of cat food to choose from food chartyou will note that the food with fish are lower in carbs however it is recommended that you only give fish once a week due to its mercury content. Many use Fancy Feast, 9 Lives, Friskies, Wellness, Werurva etc. This list can also be found in www.catinfo.org If you are already giving insulin and you have not transitioned to wet, low carb cat food, be sure to test while you are transitioning. This is because by changing to low carb food, it could decrease your kitty’s number by 100 points or more. One last thing, many of us add water to the wet food so your kitty is getting plenty of water to flush out the toxins and to keep them hydrated.

    Hypo Kit: Always good to be prepared for possible hypo events (low blood sugar) which means that your cat has reached dangerously low numbers. It can be fatal, hence, the importance of home testing and collecting data in a spreadsheet. In each of the Insulin forums are stickie’s labeled Hypo Links. Here is one: How to Handle a Hypo. Please print and post on your refrigerator so everyone in your household is aware of hypo symptoms. You will want to create your hypo kit that would include and not limited to; extra testing strips, honey/karo/maple syrup, high carb food, medium carb food, vet information, etc. Hopefully you will never need it but probably at some point in time, you will need to deter from going too low.

    Ketones: Diabetic cats are susceptible to diabetic ketoacidosis (DKA). It is best to buy testing strips that will measure (if any) ketones in the urine. One brand is Ketostix which can be found at Walmart or any pharmacy. You will want to test periodically unless you continue to get high numbers, then it is suggested to test more frequently. Ketostix typically costs around $10 for 100.

    Treats: It is always nice to have treats available for your kitty especially when testing or when they decide not to eat. I like using Pure Bites. I have found it at Petsmart and other pet stores. It is freeze dried and the only ingredient is the meat i.e. chicken, duck, etc. If your cat likes it, then I would go to the dog section where it is cheaper than the cat package. It is bigger chunks but no problem in breaking it up. Another option is to use Bonita Flakes where you can find at your local Asian market. There is a link here somewhere in this site that has a list of low carb treats.

    Injections: Some of the insulins that folks use are Lantus, Levemir, Prozinc, Humulin, Novolin Vetsulin, etc. The first three are a little longer lasting than the last three. Two hours prior to your insulin shot, you will not want your kitty to eat. The reason is because food will elevate the BG number and you do not want to shoot based on a higher number. Then you test and then feed. It is best for your kitty to eat a little before your shoot. I shoot while he is eating. Here is a link on how to give injections.http://www.felinediabetes.com/injections.htm If you are using Humulin, Novolin, Vetsulin, etc. it is best to ensure that your kitty has eaten all of their meal; say about 20-30 minutes before you shoot.
     
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