New member - UK - where to start?!

[MinaandBelle]

Hi everyone!

My cat Belle (aged 13) has just been diagnosed with Diabetes and like many other newbies here I’m feeling so overwhelmed! Really grateful to have found this forum and I’m already learning lots from all the material here, so thank you.

Belle had a nasty case of pancreatitis and some sort of stomach bug and it was touch and go for a while if she would actually make it, but thankfully she now seems to be recovering and we can actually focus on what her long term diabetic care will look like. I have ordered Royal Canine diabetic (wet + dry) food as recommended by my vet but have since read on these forums that I should probably ditch the dry altogether and some non-diabetic specific store bought wet foods may also be fine, but I only got a month’s worth so I can start with RC and then maybe transition when I’ve done some more research.

I feel I’m getting the hang of the insulin shots.. and Belle has already stopped excessively drinking water. My main worry is what I’ll do if I need to spend a night away.. my vet tells me I can’t miss a single dose but I wonder if once I get into a routine with testing etc I may be able to be more relaxed. Does anyone have any experience of this? I obviously don’t want to send her into this really unwell state ever again, by I need to be realistic about what I can do with my current commitments and no support nearby.

And my other main question is around home testing: my vet said I should aim to do a glucose curve in about 2-3 weeks to see how Belle is responding to the insulin and if we need to change the dose, but many of you on here mention daily testing. Is that something everyone does? Just keen to understand what the recommended routine is so I don’t miss anything. I saw the Freestyle Libre kits are only for 14 days so that tends to suggest it would be a good option to track a curve every now and then but maybe for a daily monitoring the blood prick test is better? My main priority is to minimise stress for Belle (so would like to do everything at home if at all possible) and to balance this with gaining as much data as possible so that I can manage this in a sustainable way.

Thanks in advance and apologies for the stream of consciousness!

Jo
(Overwhelmed mum of Belle)

 

[squeem3]

Welcome!

Many people hire a pet sitter to cover insulin, feeding, litter box, etc if they need to be away. The person can be a friend, neighbor, family, a tech from the vet's office, etc. The most important thing is that the person can be trusted (hear too many stories online of bad sitters who don't show up and still want to be paid) and is willing to learn how to give insulin properly and do blood glucose checks. Other people board their cats. Some vets have medical boarding. A few others actually take their cats along for the trip, if that is an option.

Human diabetics test their blood glucose levels multiple times a day. Diabetic cats are no different. They just need their person to do it for them. Always test before giving insulin. That way you know what the blood glucose level is and if it's safe to give insulin or not. Newbies are generally advised not to give insulin at 159 mg/dl or less (about 7 mmol). Ear pricking doesn't bother a cat although there is a bit of a learning curve and it may take some cats time and lots of low carb treats to get used to. Once you are testing at home, there is no need to have the vet do a curve ($$$). You can do this yourself. You basically test the blood glucose level approximately every 2 hours from right before the morning insulin shot to right before the evening insulin shot. If the cat doesn't cooperate, that's ok Just get as many tests done as you can, spreading them 2 to 3 hours apart. Write down the numbers you get. FDMB members use an online spreadsheet that is easily shared with the vet. Paper and pencil works until you get a spreadsheet set up.

An alternative to ear pricking is a blood glucose meter that sticks to the cat's shaved skin and continuously monitors levels, sending them to an app on your phone. It is the Libre meter. The meter is supposed to last 2 weeks before it needs replacing but can fall off before then or malfunction. A vet can replace the meter but you can learn how to put it on yourself. There are members who mainly use the Libre and have a regular Human blood glucose meter on hand as a back up.

You don't need the RC dry food at all. Just return it for a refund. Some diabetics are carb sensitive and even a little dry food can keep blood glucose levels too high. Canned is fine but there are better and lesser exspensive brands that the RC. Here's the link to the food charts: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/links-to-food-charts.174182/ Choose foods that have 10% or less carbs.

Pancreatitis is common with diabetic cats. Here's some UK info: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/article-on-pancreatitis-for-uk-residents.194915/

What insulin did the vet prescribe and what dose?

 

[MinaandBelle]

Welcome!

Many people hire a pet sitter to cover insulin, feeding, litter box, etc if they need to be away. The person can be a friend, neighbor, family, a tech from the vet's office, etc. The most important thing is that the person can be trusted (hear too many stories online of bad sitters who don't show up and still want to be paid) and is willing to learn how to give insulin properly and do blood glucose checks. Other people board their cats. Some vets have medical boarding. A few others actually take their cats along for the trip, if that is an option.

Human diabetics test their blood glucose levels multiple times a day. Diabetic cats are no different. They just need their person to do it for them. Always test before giving insulin. That way you know what the blood glucose level is and if it's safe to give insulin or not. Newbies are generally advised not to give insulin at 159 mg/dl or less (about 7 mmol). Ear pricking doesn't bother a cat although there is a bit of a learning curve and it may take some cats time and lots of low carb treats to get used to. Once you are testing at home, there is no need to have the vet do a curve ($$$). You can do this yourself. You basically test the blood glucose level approximately every 2 hours from right before the morning insulin shot to right before the evening insulin shot. If the cat doesn't cooperate, that's ok Just get as many tests done as you can, spreading them 2 to 3 hours apart. Write down the numbers you get. FDMB members use an online spreadsheet that is easily shared with the vet. Paper and pencil works until you get a spreadsheet set up.

An alternative to ear pricking is a blood glucose meter that sticks to the cat's shaved skin and continuously monitors levels, sending them to an app on your phone. It is the Libre meter. The meter is supposed to last 2 weeks before it needs replacing but can fall off before then or malfunction. A vet can replace the meter but you can learn how to put it on yourself. There are members who mainly use the Libre and have a regular Human blood glucose meter on hand as a back up.

You don't need the RC dry food at all. Just return it for a refund. Some diabetics are carb sensitive and even a little dry food can keep blood glucose levels too high. Canned is fine but there are better and lesser exspensive brands that the RC. Here's the link to the food charts: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/links-to-food-charts.174182/ Choose foods that have 10% or less carbs.

Pancreatitis is common with diabetic cats. Here's some UK info: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/article-on-pancreatitis-for-uk-residents.194915/

What insulin did the vet prescribe and what dose?

Wow that’s all so incredibly helpful, thank you so much!
I have lots to learn as you can probably tell!

The insulin I have from the vet is ProZinc 40 IU/ml and I have been told to give Belle 0.70iu every 12 hours

 

[CORKY]

Welcome!

Many people hire a pet sitter to cover insulin, feeding, litter box, etc if they need to be away. The person can be a friend, neighbor, family, a tech from the vet's office, etc. The most important thing is that the person can be trusted (hear too many stories online of bad sitters who don't show up and still want to be paid) and is willing to learn how to give insulin properly and do blood glucose checks. Other people board their cats. Some vets have medical boarding. A few others actually take their cats along for the trip, if that is an option.

Human diabetics test their blood glucose levels multiple times a day. Diabetic cats are no different. They just need their person to do it for them. Always test before giving insulin. That way you know what the blood glucose level is and if it's safe to give insulin or not. Newbies are generally advised not to give insulin at 159 mg/dl or less (about 7 mmol). Ear pricking doesn't bother a cat although there is a bit of a learning curve and it may take some cats time and lots of low carb treats to get used to. Once you are testing at home, there is no need to have the vet do a curve ($$$). You can do this yourself. You basically test the blood glucose level approximately every 2 hours from right before the morning insulin shot to right before the evening insulin shot. If the cat doesn't cooperate, that's ok Just get as many tests done as you can, spreading them 2 to 3 hours apart. Write down the numbers you get. FDMB members use an online spreadsheet that is easily shared with the vet. Paper and pencil works until you get a spreadsheet set up.

An alternative to ear pricking is a blood glucose meter that sticks to the cat's shaved skin and continuously monitors levels, sending them to an app on your phone. It is the Libre meter. The meter is supposed to last 2 weeks before it needs replacing but can fall off before then or malfunction. A vet can replace the meter but you can learn how to put it on yourself. There are members who mainly use the Libre and have a regular Human blood glucose meter on hand as a back up.

You don't need the RC dry food at all. Just return it for a refund. Some diabetics are carb sensitive and even a little dry food can keep blood glucose levels too high. Canned is fine but there are better and lesser exspensive brands that the RC. Here's the link to the food charts: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/links-to-food-charts.174182/ Choose foods that have 10% or less carbs.

Pancreatitis is common with diabetic cats. Here's some UK info: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/article-on-pancreatitis-for-uk-residents.194915/

What insulin did the vet prescribe and what dose?

Welcome to FDF, you are in the right place we are here to help you

 

[squeem3]

@Suzanne & Darcy can help you with ProZinc. It's a good insulin to use.

 

[MinaandBelle]

Great, thank you.
And can I also just ask, with the daily testing being needed does that mean that users of the Freestyle Libre replace it every 14 days such that their cat always wears one? Sorry if that’s a silly question, just want to make sure I’ve understood the options. Thank you

 

[squeem3]

Yes, the cat wears the Libre meter 24/7. @Staci & Ivy uses one for her cat. Ivy wears a little shirt to keep her from pulling off the meter.

 

[Staci & Ivy]

Great, thank you.
And can I also just ask, with the daily testing being needed does that mean that users of the Freestyle Libre replace it every 14 days such that their cat always wears one? Sorry if that’s a silly question, just want to make sure I’ve understood the options. Thank you

Hi Mina, glad you found us so we can help you and Belle!
There are no silly questions because understandably, everything is new and there is so much to learn.
I’ll give you my basic rundown and then you’re welcome to ask any questions and I’ll be happy to try to help you in anyway I can.

I’ve been using a Libre 3 on my cat, Ivy, for about 2 years and I’m very comfortable using them.
My cat doesn’t tolerate constant ear pricks, she gets very angry and will bite and scratch me.

*I also test with a handheld meter when she hits “LO” readings on the Libre most especially.
There can be a discrepancy between when you see “LO” readings on the Libre and what the handheld glucometer reads.
I use a Contour Next human meter, but it could be any handheld human meter or a pet meter.
I install the sensors every 14 days myself and I keep several (at least 4) on hand at all times because they can fail or be pulled off at any time by the cat. I don’t want to have to wait to have someone else put it on or be without data, or have to take Ivy to a vet for that to be done. (It’s one more stressor for you and your cat, plus additional costs $$).

It’s truly not that hard to put on. You just have to follow the directions very carefully. Once you’ve done it one or two times you will be very comfortable doing it.
I keep a “tube top” on Ivy, (previously had a T-shirt on her. She just didn’t like the T-shirt). But most cats tolerate a tee shirt quite well.
Your kitty may get used to wearing a Libre sensor (and then you may not have to use a T-shirt, but then again you might always have to keep one on if he likes to pull the Libre off.)
Ivy with her tube top:

(Not my cat below, just showing the placement of sensor)

For a Libre 3, I got Ivy her own phone that stays with her at home and I can monitor her 24/7, the data is sent directly to my own phone through the Libre Linkup App).
The phone does not require any active service so you are not paying for an additional phone line. The phone operates on Bluetooth and uses Wi-Fi to send the data to your phone so that you can monitor your cat’s sensor information at all times.
You can use an older phone model if you have one or could purchase one used.
On the Abbott website there are lists of compatible, androids, or iPhones.

***I strongly recommend learning about how to use a Libre from the Facebook group:
“Freestyle Libre for Dogs and Cats”
They have somuch valuable information, guide guides, tutorials videos, and everything you will need to learn about using a Freestyle Libre 3 sensor and what supplies to use.

A vet’s office tends to use glue to install them, it is highly recommended not to use any glue.
The glue can flood and kill the sensor and it’s terrible on their fragile skin.

I hope this helps. Please ask questions if you have them.

 

[MinaandBelle]

Hi Mina, glad you found us so we can help you and Belle!
There are no silly questions because understandably, everything is new and there is so much to learn.
I’ll give you my basic rundown and then you’re welcome to ask any questions and I’ll be happy to try to help you in anyway I can.

I’ve been using a Libre 3 on my cat, Ivy, for about 2 years and I’m very comfortable using them.
My cat doesn’t tolerate constant ear pricks, she gets very angry and will bite and scratch me.

*I also test with a handheld meter when she hits “LO” readings on the Libre most especially.
There can be a discrepancy between when you see “LO” readings on the Libre and what the handheld glucometer reads.
I use a Contour Next human meter, but it could be any handheld human meter or a pet meter.
I install the sensors every 14 days myself and I keep several (at least 4) on hand at all times because they can fail or be pulled off at any time by the cat. I don’t want to have to wait to have someone else put it on or be without data, or have to take Ivy to a vet for that to be done. (It’s one more stressor for you and your cat, plus additional costs $$).

It’s truly not that hard to put on. You just have to follow the directions very carefully. Once you’ve done it one or two times you will be very comfortable doing it.
I keep a “tube top” on Ivy, (previously had a T-shirt on her. She just didn’t like the T-shirt). But most cats tolerate a tee shirt quite well.
Your kitty may get used to wearing a Libre sensor (and then you may not have to use a T-shirt, but then again you might always have to keep one on if he likes to pull the Libre off.)
Ivy with her tube top:
View attachment 73514
(Not my cat below, just showing the placement of sensor)
View attachment 73515
For a Libre 3, I got Ivy her own phone that stays with her at home and I can monitor her 24/7, the data is sent directly to my own phone through the Libre Linkup App).
The phone does not require any active service so you are not paying for an additional phone line. The phone operates on Bluetooth and uses Wi-Fi to send the data to your phone so that you can monitor your cat’s sensor information at all times.
You can use an older phone model if you have one or could purchase one used.
On the Abbott website there are lists of compatible, androids, or iPhones.

***I strongly recommend learning about how to use a Libre from the Facebook group:
“Freestyle Libre for Dogs and Cats”
They have somuch valuable information, guide guides, tutorials videos, and everything you will need to learn about using a Freestyle Libre 3 sensor and what supplies to use.

A vet’s office tends to use glue to install them, it is highly recommended not to use any glue.
The glue can flood and kill the sensor and it’s terrible on their fragile skin.

I hope this helps. Please ask questions if you have them.

Thank you so so much! Ivy looks just fabulous in her tube top
This is super helpful. I’m going to process all of this and discuss with my partner and come up with a plan. I think maybe we’ll start with a handheld meter and see how well Belle tolerates it. She’s generally quite happy with me touching her ears etc and responds well to treats/ food so I’m hoping that will be OK, but it’s brilliant to know we have a Plan B if she (or we!) struggle with it. thank you so much

 

[Staci & Ivy]

Thank you so so much! Ivy looks just fabulous in her tube top
This is super helpful. I’m going to process all of this and discuss with my partner and come up with a plan. I think maybe we’ll start with a handheld meter and see how well Belle tolerates it. She’s generally quite happy with me touching her ears etc and responds well to treats/ food so I’m hoping that will be OK, but it’s brilliant to know we have a Plan B if she (or we!) struggle with it. thank you so much

Hopefully you can test with ear pricks and no problems. Most cats tolerate that with no problems!! Best of luck!

 

[squeem3]

It may be frustrating to learn how to home test in the beginning Just watch the videos in the hometesting link and try different things to see what works for you and your cat. Offer low carb treats so your cat associates you messing with the ears with a treat. A "rice sock" helps get the blood flowing through the ear.

 

[CORKY]

Hopefully you can test with ear pricks and no problems. Most cats tolerate that with no problems!! Best of luck! [/QUO

You also do not need to pay a vet to change the sensor you can do it on your own, Super Simple instructions, also, the Prescribed (DM) they have a large amount of carbs 20% or more food is not necessary, diabetic cats need to eat a wet can diet between 0-10% carbs, (no Kibbles, and the DM has a lot of carbs) 2 main meals prior shooting and several 2-3 small meals or snacks during the day,if you cannot be home during the day a Wet food feeder is a good idea you can program it to the feeding time, never shoot insulin on an empty stomach, or miss a dose, you want to check glucose level before every dose, you do not want to shoot on a low BG level as a newbie, ProZinc is a good insulin, it is a 12 hour insulin its protocol is test, feed shoot. below is a UK Food list for you to choose from, you also need what is called a HYPO KIT, this includes some medium carb food between 11-15% carbs some high carb food between 16-24% some KARO OR honey , this is in case the BG get lower than 50, the Karo and Honey is a quick fix, we can assist you to raise the BG with food if need to. We are very number oriented, so we would like to set up a Spreadsheet for your baby. below is the link, if you need assistance please let us know, and again Welcome to our Forum, you are in good hands, My Corky also uses ProZinc, you may click on his Spreadsheet below so you get to see how it works
Food Info for UK - Google Drive

 

[Sienne and Gabby (GA)]

Welcome to FDMB!

I'm tagging one of our UK members who may be able to provide more specific information regarding food, etc. that's available.
@Elizabeth and Bertie

If your vet suggested the Royal Canin Glycobalance, not only is the dry food high in carbs, so is the canned food. The canned food is 14% carbs. We consider low carb as under 10%. (Over 15% is high carb.) If your cat likes the Royal Canin, I would hold on to it so you have a food on hand if you need to bump up your cat's blood glucose numbers. We all keep a stock of higher carb food along with something like corn syrup, honey, etc. for managing a drop in blood glucose numbers.

If you look at the spreadsheets that are in our signatures, you'll notice that many of us test a lot. (I was a testaholic!) We suggest that you test a minimum of 4 times each day. You want to test prior to giving a shot so you know that it's safe to do so. You also want to get at least one test during both the AM and PM cycles. As for spreadsheets and other basic information to get you started, there is information in this post on helping us to help you that provides instructions for setting up your spreadsheet and signature. The spreadsheet will allow you to track Belle's progress and allow us to follow along and provide input. The signature will give us some basic information about your kitty so we don't keep asking the same questions.

This is a link to the Prozinc forum. There are several sticky notes at the top of the page that provide information about Prozinc, dosing methods, etc. You may find the information helpful.

 

[MinaandBelle]

Thank you all so much for these really helpful responses, and sorry for my delay in replying - for some reason I stopped getting email notifications!
I’ve watched the helpful videos and finally felt brave enough to try my first blood prick test and I think it actually went pretty well. I have the PetTest Advocate (so one specifically for pets rather than humans) and I used penetration setting 2 which seemed to be sensible for a first to. My cat didn’t really flinch (a bit of yoghurt helped to distract her!) and I managed to get enough blood for a reading on the first try which I’m relieved by. The reading I got was 262mg/dL which seems high according to Dr Google (!) but it was about an hour after her breakfast and insulin shot. I realise I should have done it before but it was just a practice run to see if I could manage it or if I needed to make a vet appointment before doing her first glucose curve this week. So far so good I think…
Does that reading suggest anything do you think? (May as well analyse it as I have the number!!) or is it not helpful in isolation as it wasn’t before the insulin?
Thank you

 

[squeem3]

262 in general is high but don't worry about it since your cat has just started insulin. +1 262 (one hour after insulin was given the level was 262) doesn't really tell much. You need to test before giving the insulin shot and try to get a few random checks during the cycle.

Normal levels are roughly 60 to 150. Ideally you want to have your cat stay within this range as much of the time as possible with insulin and diet. I'm not familiar with ProZinc bur @Suzanne & Darcy can help you.

You'll need to keep track of your cat's blood glucose numbers. FDMB members use a Google based spreadsheet that is easily shared with others. The instructions are here: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/how-to-create-a-spreadsheet.241706/ Does your meter give readings in mmol or mg/dl? If mmol, you'll want to choose the World Template for Pet Meters.

 

[MinaandBelle]

262 in general is high but don't worry about it since your cat has just started insulin. +1 262 (one hour after insulin was given the level was 262) doesn't really tell much. You need to test before giving the insulin shot and try to get a few random checks during the cycle.

Normal levels are roughly 60 to 150. Ideally you want to have your cat stay within this range as much of the time as possible with insulin and diet. I'm not familiar with ProZinc bur @Suzanne & Darcy can help you.

You'll need to keep track of your cat's blood glucose numbers. FDMB members use a Google based spreadsheet that is easily shared with others. The instructions are here: https://www.felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/how-to-create-a-spreadsheet.241706/ Does your meter give readings in mmol or mg/dl? If mmol, you'll want to choose the World Template for Pet Meters.

Thank you - yes it’s in mg/dl. I’m going to create a spreadsheet ASAP. My vet has said to do a glucose curve in another few days (so it’s been 2-3 weeks since staring insulin) so I will start the spreadsheet then and share with you all. I’ll also create my signature as suggested above. I really appreciate all the support.
I’ve also just emailed my vet about the food. It was actually another (emergency) vet who suggested Royal Canin Diabetic and my regular vet seems much more knowledgeable so will check in with her on this before moving Belle to lower carb stuff. Annoying that it can be marketed as Diabetic when so high in carbs!

Thank you!

 

[CORKY]

Thank you - yes it’s in mg/dl. I’m going to create a spreadsheet ASAP. My vet has said to do a glucose curve in another few days (so it’s been 2-3 weeks since staring insulin) so I will start the spreadsheet then and share with you all. I’ll also create my signature as suggested above. I really appreciate all the support.
I’ve also just emailed my vet about the food. It was actually another (emergency) vet who suggested Royal Canin Diabetic and my regular vet seems much more knowledgeable so will check in with her on this before moving Belle to lower carb stuff. Annoying that it can be marketed as Diabetic when so high in carbs!

Thank you!

Below is a link of a food calculator look at the nutrients % of the can or bad type them in the calculator, the dry matter % you get is the % of carbs in that food, you need to feed a diabetic cat 0-10% carb food, do not be sold on the "prescribed" food, this is a promotion that's promoted by a sales person as prescribed, the sales person makes a commission and so does the vet and your cat's BG numbers keep on rising, unless the cat has some type of allergy issues or other stomach issues, then you would like for other options of foods, still avoiding commercial dry foods
Cat Food Nutrition Calculator | Elizabeth C Scheyder

 

[squeem3]

Purina DM is a commonly prescribed food for diabetics in the US but if you look at the label, DM stands for dietetic management not diabetic management The food is no longer the same as it was when it was created years ago. The vet who created DM, someone who used to post here on FDMB years ago, stopped recommending the food when Purina started changing the ingredients and formulation.

Cat tinned food in jelly is low in carb. I recall those being recommended to UK members in the past. If you search the forum for "UK food" you'll get a bunch of threads with suggestions. Home cooked and raw foods are also options.

There are current UK members here. Hopefully they'll be by to offer more specific UK advice and help.

 

[CORKY]

Purina DM is a commonly prescribed food for diabetics in the US but if you look at the label, DM stands for dietetic management not diabetic management The food is no longer the same as it was when it was created years ago. The vet who created DM, someone who used to post here on FDMB years ago, stopped recommending the food when Purina started changing the ingredients and formulation.

Cat tinned food in jelly is low in carb. I recall those being recommended to UK members in the past. If you search the forum for "UK food" you'll get a bunch of threads with suggestions. Home cooked and raw foods are also options.

There are current UK members here. Hopefully they'll be by to offer more specific UK advice and help.

I just remembered reading your first post the you gave shot without food, ProZinc protocol; is TEST, FEED, SHOOT is best to wait a bit and try to feed some food before shooting, not good to shoot on an empty stomach, or miss a dose. I will tag someone that can help you with dosing and any other ProZic concerns
@Suzanne & Darcy

 

[MinaandBelle]

I just remembered reading your first post the you gave shot without food, ProZinc protocol; is TEST, FEED, SHOOT is best to wait a bit and try to feed some food before shooting, not good to shoot on an empty stomach, or miss a dose. I will tag someone that can help you with dosing and any other ProZic concerns
@Suzanne & Darcy

Thank you but no I definitely wouldn’t give a shot of insulin without food, my vet made that really clear. Luckily my cat is eating well at the moment so no problem there!

 

[MinaandBelle]

Below is a link of a food calculator look at the nutrients % of the can or bad type them in the calculator, the dry matter % you get is the % of carbs in that food, you need to feed a diabetic cat 0-10% carb food, do not be sold on the "prescribed" food, this is a promotion that's promoted by a sales person as prescribed, the sales person makes a commission and so does the vet and your cat's BG numbers keep on rising, unless the cat has some type of allergy issues or other stomach issues, then you would like for other options of foods, still avoiding commercial dry foods
Cat Food Nutrition Calculator | Elizabeth C Scheyder

Thanks so much for sharing the food calculator.. one thing I’m wondering is on the food I’m currently feeding (Royal Canin Diabetic wet food) it says “Carbohydrate Source 1.5%” - Does anyone know if that’s the same as Carbohydrate content, or some sort of subset of that? See attached. Thank you

 

[CORKY]

Thanks so much for sharing the food calculator.. one thing I’m wondering is on the food I’m currently feeding (Royal Canin Diabetic wet food) it says “Carbohydrate Source 1.5%” - Does anyone know if that’s the same as Carbohydrate content, or some sort of subset of that? See attached. Thank you

All royal cannon food dry or wet hace an extreme amount of carbs place the nutrients in the calculator the dry matter %?would be the carbs you do not need “prescribed food “ for a diabetic cat is only a vets sales promotion you can go on the CHEWY.com web site look for the food and click on the picture scroll down and go to nutrients put those numbers in the car calculator

 

[MinaandBelle]

All royal cannon food dry or wet hace an extreme amount of carbs place the nutrients in the calculator the dry matter %?would be the carbs you do not need “prescribed food “ for a diabetic cat is only a vets sales promotion

Thank you. Their UK diabetic wet food does seem to be low carbs. Accordingly to the calculator it’s 2.5%. But I still don’t feel it’s necessary to spend this much and there are many other cheaper options that are just as low so I’ll gradually transition to one of those. Thanks for your help

 

[CORKY]

Thank you. Their UK diabetic wet food does seem to be low carbs. Accordingly to the calculator it’s 2.5%. But I still don’t feel it’s necessary to spend this much and there are many other cheaper options that are just as low so I’ll gradually transition to one of those. Thanks for your help

You are absolutely right on that one, good thinking

 

[squeem3]

Chewy isn't an option for UK members

There's a link to a Google list of UK foods here: https://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/threads/cat-food-help.272206/

General UK info: https://felinediabetes.com/FDMB/thr...-vit-b12-and-other-need-to-know-stuff.137376/

 

[MinaandBelle]

I've just started doing my first blood glucose curve for Belle (and I've now set up my spreadsheet and included it as my signature).
So far the readings are looking much lower than I expected, so much so that I'm doubting myself that I'm doing it properly!, but I'm not getting an error reading from the meter and it seems to be working fine. I'm getting enough blood etc. I think perhaps the move to wet low carb food has had quite a big impact (before she was only on dry kibbles, very high carb).

Anyway I guess this is a positive thing, if her readings aren't too high. Would love any thoughts if anyone has time to take a look once I've finished it (also any feedback if I've been completing the spreadsheet incorrectly). Will obviously share with my vet too, but my thinking currently is that she probably doesn't need an increased dosage of insulin.

Thank you in advance

 

[CORKY]

I've just started doing my first blood glucose curve for Belle (and I've now set up my spreadsheet and included it as my signature).
So far the readings are looking much lower than I expected, so much so that I'm doubting myself that I'm doing it properly!, but I'm not getting an error reading from the meter and it seems to be working fine. I'm getting enough blood etc. I think perhaps the move to wet low carb food has had quite a big impact (before she was only on dry kibbles, very high carb).

Anyway I guess this is a positive thing, if her readings aren't too high. Would love any thoughts if anyone has time to take a look once I've finished it (also any feedback if I've been completing the spreadsheet incorrectly). Will obviously share with my vet too, but my thinking currently is that she probably doesn't need an increased dosage of insulin.

Thank you in advance

Good morning, at what time are his shots?? 91
is good did you transitioned to the wet food slowly?

 

[MinaandBelle]

Also... a potentially very stupid question.. is it important to not give Belle any food other than immediately before her 2 insulin shots? for example if I wanted to give her a treat for each blood prick test to distract her or reward her, would that skew the results? Thanks

 

[MinaandBelle]

Good morning, at what time are his shots?? 91
is good did you transitioned to the wet food slowly?

The shot was at 7.20am, immediately after she ate.
In terms of transitioning slowly, not really to be honest because she was unwell with pancreatitis and in the emergency vet and wet food was the only thing they could get her to eat, so when I brought her home I took the same food they had been giving her (wet convalescence food) and then gradually moved her to the longer term wet food. Hope that makes sense!

But she stopped on the kibble quite suddenly I guess as she just stopped eating due to being unwell.

 

[CORKY]

Also... a potentially very stupid question.. is it important to not give Belle any food other than immediately before her 2 insulin shots? for example if I wanted to give her a treat for each blood prick test to distract her or reward her, would that skew the results? Thanks

You shouldn’t feed then test, but if the treat is low carb just give enough a bit if it helps to shoot but do it right away

 

[CORKY]

The shot was at 7.20am, immediately after she ate.
In terms of transitioning slowly, not really to be honest because she was unwell with pancreatitis and in the emergency vet and wet food was the only thing they could get her to eat, so when I brought her home I took the same food they had been giving her (wet convalescence food) and then gradually moved her to the longer term wet food. Hope that makes sense!

But she stopped on the kibble quite suddenly I guess as she just stopped eating due to being unwell.

@Suzanne & Darcy
Could you help her with dosing